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CORRESPONDENCE
PALESTINE TOURISTS;
COMPRISING
A SERIES OF LETTERS
BY
aEORGE A. SMITH, LORENZO SNOW, PAUL A. SCIIETTLER, AND ELIZA R. SNOW,
OIF tjtj^h:.
MOSTLY WRITTEN WHILE TRAVELING IN
EUROPE, ASIA AND AFRICA,
ZJV THE YEAES 1872 and 1873.
Prtnita at tne,De^ertl News. SteuKi- Printing •Fetahiiahmeht
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH TERRITORY.
1875.
lis S^7c
INDEX AND CONTENTS
LETTER I .
PAGE.
Instructions— Going to Europe and Asia Minor— Openings for the Gospel —
Palestine to be Dedicated— Return ol the Jews— Fulfilment of Prohecy, 1
LETTER II.
At Washington — Visit to the Departments— The Presidential Election— The
Epizootic— Interview with President Grant— Passports for Europe. 2
LETTER III.
Traveling by Steam— Departure from Salt Lake City— Good By— The Plains—
The Missouri Bridge— Thunderstorm— In a Palace Car— Arrival at Chicago. 4
LETTER IV.
Visiting Relatives at Fountain Green — Sisters of Joseph Smith, the Prophet —At the Birthplace of Joseph and Hyrum Smith— The Epizootic— Fitch- burg— At New York. 6
LETTER V .
Riding Five Days and Five Nights— Arrival in New York— Members of the
Company — Missionaries for Europe. 8
LETTERVI. On the Ocean— Sea-sickness— At Davenport— At BuflTalo— Niagara Falls— The
Railroad Suspension Bridge — Crossing to Canada. 9
LETTER VII.
Nearing Queenstown— Departure from New York— Rain and "Wind at Sea— Sea-sickness— Headwinds— Smooth Sea and Fair Winds—" Crossing the Atlantic," a Poem by Miss E. R. Snow. 11
LETTER VIII.
On Terra Firma— Ben Butler— At the St. Nicholas Hotel— West Point— Inter- view with Officials— A Drive Round Central Park. 15
LETTER IX.
At Liverpool— Visit to the Workhouse, It Covers Nine Acres of Ground— The Shoemakers' Quarters— Picking Oakum—Paupers do not Like Work— Their Sleeping Rooms— Apartments of the Female Inmates— Tea and Bread and Butter— The Laundry — The Childrens' Apartments—" Poor Little For- saken"— The Hospital— The Dining Room— The Church— Monument to Agnes Jones— The Vagabonds' Apartment. 18
IG^91-1
IV INDEX AND CONTENTS.
LETTER X,
PAGE.
Crossins the Hudson— Visit to West Point— Trophies of War— Putnam's Fort- Tete-a-tete with a Student— Information about Palestine— Leave New York. 23
LETTER XI. On Board the " Minnesota "—First Sight of the Ocean — Arrival in Liverpool- Dense, Interminable Fog — Leave for London— English Railway Cars— No Sleeping Cars— English Rural Scenery— Poem, " London," by Miss E. R. Snow. 24
LETTER XII. A Conference — Passed Queenstown — Arrival at Liverpool — Scattering of the Members of the Party— Arrival in London— The Albert Memorial— The Princess Theatre— Houses of Parliament — Under-ground Railway — Attend Meetings— George J. Adams and the Holy Land, 28
LETTER XIII. In London— Full Description of the National Monument— The Grandest Monu- ment in the World — One Hundred and Eighty Feet High — Its Construc- tion—Mass of Concrete— Substructure of Brick— The Podium — One Hun- dred and Eighty Marble Statues— The Tabernacle— Lofty Spire set with Thousands of Gems— Embossed Globe— Statue of Prince Albert— Faith, Hope, Charity and Humanity. 30
LETTER XIV. Description of the Tower of London — When Built— Queen Elizabeth's Armory —Cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, Ralstone, Ac— The Horse Armory— Coats of Mail and Weapons of Different Ages— Torture Rooms— Ann Boleyn— Earl of Essex— Lady Jane Grey— Executioner's Axe— Instruments of Torture- Regalia and Jewel House. 34
LETTER XV. A Week in London— Sight-seeing— Visiting— Attending Conference— Theatres — Crystal Palace — ^The Grand Aquarium— Tower of London—" Man's Inhu- manity to Man "—Going to Rotterdam. 38
LETTER XVI.
At Rotterdam — Programme of Travel — Antwerp — Brussels— Paris — Lyons — Marseilles — Nice — Genoa — Turin — Milan — Venice — Bologna — Florence
—Rome, &c 40
LETTER XVII. Amsterdam— The Hague— Haarlem— Description of Rotterdam— Jews, Catho- lics, Protestants — Canals— Church of St. Lawrence— Public Schools— Fight- ing Old Ocean— Windmills and Steam Engines— Calamity at Dort — The Hague Described — Mode of Keeping Back the Waters— The Museum— Mas- terpieces of Dutch Painters—" The House in the Wood "—An Evening with the American Minister. 41
LETTER XVIII.
Sight-seeing in Liverpool— Arrival in London— Albert Memorial- Houses of Parliament— Westminster Abbey — Nelson Monument— Crystal Palace— Theatres— Rotterdam— Table d'Hote— Visit to a Moravian Settlement— The Hague— The Japanese Museum— Visit to the American Minister— Haarlem
INDEX AND CONTENT a.
—The Cuthcdral and Grand Organ, Imitation Thunderstorm— Meeting with Saints— Amsterdam— Its Museum— The King's Palace— Visit the Navy Yard — Leave for Rotterdam — Cross the Maas — Enter Belgium- Catholic Marriage Ceremony— Programme of Ti-avel. .. . 4»5
LETTER XIX.
8ea-sicltncss— Rotterdam— Among the Moravians— The Canal System- The Utrecht Cathedral^Beautiful Trees— Struggle for Mastery between Land and Sea— The Hague— "House in the Wood"— Evening with Mr. Gorham and Lady— Haarlem— A Shot by the Spaniards—" Bible Hotel "—King's Palace— Navy Yard— Building Iron-clad Monitors— The Cemetery— Meet- ing withSaiuts- Baptisms— Enter Belgium— Antwerp Cathedral— Paintings and Tomb of Rubens. 51
LETTEK XX.
At Haarlem— Its Former Struggle with Spain— Two thousand People Executed —Church of St. Bavon and its M^onderful Oi-gan- A Dutch Wedding— The Inventor of the Art of Printing— Amsterdam— A City on Piles Built on a Salt Marsh— Amsterdam Sapped and Mined by a Formidable Army of Worms— Canals— A City Containing One Hundred Islands and Two Hun- dred and Eighty Bridges— The Museum— A Palace on Piles— The Council Chamber— Clipping Iron Plates— Diamond Cutting'- Charitable Institutions. .>5
LETTER XXI.
Journey to New Yorlc— Crossing the Atlantic— London— The German Ocean- Rotterdam— House and Statue of Erasmus— Queen's Palace— The Old Bible Hotel— Shipbuilding— A Dutch Burial Ground— Antwerp— The Cathedral- Church of St. Jacques— Tomb of Ruben s— Field of Waterloo. 60
LETTER XXII.
In Brussels— A Tour in Holland— Its Geographical Divisions— Naval and Mer- cantile Marine — Colonies — The Executive — The Legislature — Modes of Travel— Brick Roads— Canals— Annual Expense of Dykes— Lofty Buildings Cleanliness— Mirrors in the Streets— Church Chimes— A Singular Custom- Births and Marriages — Dutch Country Houses — Gigantic Windmills — " Polders, " how Produced — Public Schools. 63
LETTERXXIII.
Brussels— Hard-worked Women— Feeding Horses with Coarse Bread— Field of Waterloo— Monument of the Prince of Orange— A Saying of Joseph Smith— A Genuine Relic of Waterloo. t>8
LETTER XXIV.
Antwerp, Its Maritime Trade — Cathedral of Notre Dame, Its Wonderful Chimes— The Museuna— A Masterpiece of Rubens — The Royal Palace — Brussels, Paris in Miniature — Cathedral of St. Nicholas— Selling Wax Candles — A Catholic Devotee — A Singular Marriage Ceremony — Royal Operatic Theatre— National Palace— Hotel de Ville— Monument to Counts Egmont and Horn. 70
LETTER XXV.
Paris— Visit to Versailles— Bois de Boulogne— St. Cloud— Attend the National Assembly— French Glory, Bruises and Scars— Interview with the President
Of the French Republic. 2
yi INDEX AND CONTENTS.
PAGE
LETTER XXVI.
Paris-Destrnction of the Commune-Palace of the Louvre-Relics of Napo- leon First-Napoleonic Rule in France-French Aristocracy-Magnificent Improvements-Champs Elysees-Garden of the Tuileries-Garden of the Luxembourg-The Palace of Versailles-Tho Finest Hall in the World- Memories of Louis XVI-Le Grand Monarque-An Aristocratic Gambling Saloon-Bed-chamber of Three Queens-Fifty Miles of Parks and Gardens- Extract from the Paris " American Register "-Poetry-" Farewell to Paris." 79
LETTER XXVII.
Brussels-Theatre Royal-Church of St. Michael and Gudule-Visit to a Lace Factory-Houses of Parliament-Hotel de Vllle-Waterloo and the Farm of Hougomont-Arrlval at Paris-Call upon the American Minister-Visit to Palaces— Notre Dame— Opinion of Utah Silk— Visit the Common Schools- Go to Versailles— Bois de Boulogne— Visit the President of the French Re- public—Arrival at Lyons — Silk Factories and Cocooneries.
LETTER X XV III.
The Religions of France-Marriage A Civil Contract— The Concordat— Convents
in Paris-The Educational System— Number of Births in Paris— Illegitimacy
—Working classes— Paupers— Prisons— The Supreme Power, Where Vested—
The Standing Army.
LETTER XXIX.
From Paris to Lyons— Burgundy and its Wines- Famous Towns— Fontalne- bleau— Lyons and Its Silk Industries— Thirty-one Thousand Silk Looms- Weaving Portraits— Beautiful Marseilles— An Amphitheatre 1,800 Years Old— Roman Relics— Olive Plantations and Vineyards— 1 he Mediterranean.
LETTER XXX.
London Conference— Visiting the Poor—" Work Their Lives Out to Keep Life In »_Rotterdam — Dutch Cleanliness— Political Economy in Holland- Brussels and its Carpets and Lace— Waterloo— Continual Rain— Twenty Miles of Tunnels— Alpine Railroads— European and American Railways.
LETTER XXXI.
Reflections-Members of the Party-Birthplace of Columbus-Religion on Continental Europe — High Mass— The Cathedral at Genoa— Approaching Marseilles — Orange and Lemon Groves— The Mediterranean— European Apples.
LETTER XXXII.
At Venice— Railroad Track on Artificial Ground— Gondolas— A City Without Horses-A Glass Factoiy— News From Home— Death— Consolation
LETTER XXXIII.
Shores of the Mediterranean— At Venice— Genoa— Statue of Columbus— The Cathedral St. Lorenzo— The Chain That Bound John the Baptist— Desecra- tion of the Sabbath— Start for Turin— Milan— The Arcade— Cathedral of Our Blessed Lady, the Grandest Religious Edifice In the World— Magnificent Marble Statuary— Statue of St. Bartholomew— Attend High Mass— Arrival in Venice, the City of Waters.
8(1
91
9(i
100
105
108
no
INDEX AND CONTENTS. vii
PAf.'E.
LETTER XXXIV.
Venice— A Railroad on Piles— A City without Horses, Cabs or Omnibuses- Gondolas— Sailing Along the Streets— Method of Building— The Grand Canal— Three Hundred and Six Bridges— The Rialto- The Armenian Mon- astery—Former Residence of Lord Byron— A Mad -house — National Arsenal— Ancient Arms— Trophies of War— Flayed Alive— Terrible Method of Execution— The Republic— Last of the Doges— Mercantile Marine. 11")
LETTER XXXV.
More about Venice — Historical Reminiscences- Administration of the Doges- Destruction of the Republic— Vandalism of Napoleon— Curious Method of Burial -Popularity of Victor Emanuel— Old Palace of the Doges— Senate and Council Chambers— Bridge of Sighs— House ol Shylock— Residence of Othello— Palace ol Desdemona— Dwelling Place of Marco Polo— Remains of St. Marc the Evangelist— Columns of Solomon's Temple— Granite Slab from Mt. Tabor— Slab from the Prison of John the Baptist— Ancient Tomb- stones, etc. 12(1
LETTER XXXVI.
Architectural Appearance of Venice— Ancient Customs-Fires— Plague and Pestilence— Council of Ten— Traitor Beheaded— Instruments of Torture- Bridge of Sighs — Bologna — An Arcade with 700 Arches— Leaning Towers
Florence, the Most Beautiful of Italian Cities — Paintings and Sculpture — A Wonderful Cabinet of Gems and Works of Art ]25
LETTER XXXVII. Visit to an Infant School— Singing— Exercises in Reading and Writing— Lunch
Time— Excellent Ordei- — Medicine and Beds for the Sick, &c 130
LETTER XXXVIII.
Bologna— House of Galvani, Inventor of the Galvanic Battery — University of Anatomy— Florence — Raili-oad through the Apennines— A Tunnel Tm'o Miles Long— Damage by High Waters— Rome — The Forum— Triumphal Arch of Titus — Ruins of Heathen Temples— The Colosseum — Arch of Con- stantine— Famous Churches— Aqueduct of Nero— St. Anthony'sDay, Blessing Horses and Asses— Pio Nono— Italian Unity— Victor Emanuel Denounced , 133
LETTER XXXIX. At Rome — Ruins of Ancient Temples — Excavating the Forum— The Holy Staircase— Arch of Titus— The Colosseum— St. Anthony's Day— Palaces of the Emperors — Ruins of Caligula. 13,-,
LETTER XL.
Rome and its Population— The Seven Hills— Purchase of Real Estate bj- Napoleon III— Excavations by the Government — The Forum — Anthony and Julius Caesar — Where Virginius Stabbed his Daugliter — Famous Obelisks— Temple of Venus — The Tarpeian Rock— Dimensions of the Colos- seum—Visits to Cathedrals — St. Peter's— A Call on the American Minister. ]3.s
LETTER XL I.
Leave Venice— A City with One Hundred and Thirty Churches— A Famous University— Villa of King Victor Emanuel — Leaning Towers— Eoad over the Apennines—" The Garden of Italy " — At Florence — Pisa— The Campanile — The Basilica— Rome— Ancient Ruins— Beggars — Santa Scala.or Holy Stair-
Vlll INDEX AND CONTENTS.
Page. case — Atiueduct of Nero — The Apollo Theatre — Palaces of the Caesars — The Pantheon— Capitoline Hill— Prison where St. Peter and St. Paul Were Confined — ^House of Rienzi— Column of Pius Antoiiinns — The Chamber of Deputies— The Sixtine Chapel — Cemetery of the Capuchins— Visits to Fam- ous Localities and Places— The Quirinal — The Appian Way— Tombs of Celebrated Romans — Tumuli of the Horatii and of the Curatii — Circus of Romulus— The Vatican — Baths of Caracalla— Golden House of ]>Jero— Statue of Moses. llS
LETTER XLII. < io to Turin and Venice— A Hotel in Waten— A City Without Carriages— Famous and Curious Glass Manufactures— Bridge of Sighs— Bologna, Florence and Pisa— At Rome- Cemetery of the Capuchins— Burial Place of Five Thousand Monks— Arches, Chandeliers and Candlesticks of Human Bones— Palace of Victor Emanuel. 149
LETTER XLIII.
Description of the Vatican — Decorations of Michael Angelo — " The Last Judgment "—Anecdote of Paul HI and Michael Angelo— The Appian Way — Remains of Seneca- Baths of Caracalla— A Much Venerated Chapel — Footprint of the Saviour— Obelisks— Forum of Trajan— Statue of St. Peter — Constantino Embracing Christianity—Naples- Herculaneum— Pompeii- Mount Vesuvius. .-•• ...~.... 153
LETTER XLIV.
Cathedral of St. Januarius— Beggars and Peddlers— Excavations of Pompeii- Villa of Diomede— Villa of Cicero— Inn of Albinus— Vestals of Narcissus- House of Sallust— Bread Baked 1,800 Years Ago— Ancient Baths— Temple of Fortune— Temples of Jupiter and Mercury— National Museum— Relics of Pompeii— Herculaneum— Ascent of Vesuvius 158
LETTER XLV.
City of Naples— Dwellings of thePoor— Beggars— Pompeii— The Earthquakes of Anno Domini 63 and 79— Excavations and Relics— Herculaneum— The Museum of Naples— The "Secret Cabinet "—Ascent of Vesuvius— Pliny the Elder — Thirty-four Volcanic Eruptions— The "Hermitage" — From Naples to Brindisi— Hardworking Women— Turkish Towns and Villas- Corfu— Olive and Grape Culture— Religious Service in a Greek Cathedral- No " Grecian Bend "—Take Steamer for Alexandria.
160
LETTER XLVI.
Railroad Ride Across Italy— At Foggia— A Filthy Hotel— A Night in a Railway Station— Brindisi— Arrival at Corfu— Mementos of Venetian Rule— Services in a Greek Church— Holy Water— Kissing Pictures of Saints— A Political Meeting— A Man Killed— Take Steamer for Egypt— Alexandria— Pompey's Pillar— Cleopatra's Needles— A Mahommedan Cemetery— Wailing for the Dead— A Mussulman Gala Day. -. ^'^^
LETTER XLVII.
Leave Naples-Arrival at Foggia~On Board the " Trebisouda "- Cross the Adriatic- Corfu-Visit a Greek Church — Embark on the "Saturno"— Correcting False Impressions— The Ionian Islands—Reach Alexandria—
INDEX AND CONTENTS. IX
Crowds of Arabs, Turks, Greeks, Copts, Armenians, Syrians, &c.— Ma- hommedan Passover— Summer Gardens and Palace of the Viceroy- Cleopatra's Needles. -"
169
LETTER XL VIII. Rome— Excavations by Napoleon III— Naples— Pomp and Beggary— Thousands of Homeless People— Ascending Vesuvius — Brindisi — Corfu— Women " Beasts of Burden "—Embark on the " Saturiio "— " Sunrise on the Medi- terranean "—Alexandria. 172
LETTER XLIX. In Cairo— Description of Alexandria— People of Various Nationalities— Riding on Asses— Arab Runuers—Turkish Dresses— Veiled Ladies— Cleanliness of the Mussulmen — Washing and Piayer — The Mahommcdan Hegira— Mourning for the Dead— A Famous Greek Church— Joseph's Well— The Pyramids— The Sphinx— Gardens and Palace of Gizeh— Marriage Festivi- ities 176
LETTER L. Leave Alexandria— Cross the Nile— Irrigation— Method of Cultivation— Arab Mounds— Primitive Mode of Dressing— A Famous Mosque— Joseph's Well- Cairo— Church where Joseph, Mary and Jesus Tarried— The Oldest Mosque Known— Visit to the Khedive's Gardens— A Drive to the Pyramids— Backsheesh— The Sphinx— Religious Services by the Dervishes— Marriage of the Khedive's Children— City of Heliopolis- Temple of On— Fountain of the Sun— A Famous Sycamore Tree 181
LETTER LI.
Cairo— Mosque of Mahomet All- Joseph's Well— The Khedive's Festivities- Visit a Coptic Church— A Sheik Hanged— Hieropolis and City of On— The Place Where Moses Was Educated— Virgin Mary's Sycamore Tree — Salt Well Miraculously Sweetened— Plain of Heliopolis— Defeat of the Mame- lukes—Egyptian Hotel Accommodation— Land of Goshen— Suez— Where the Israelites Crossed the Red Sea— An Arab Village. 185
LETTER LII.
Tour of Egypt— Love of Children among the Egyptians— Divorce and Marital Infidelity Rare— Turkish Mosques— The Turkish Sabbath— The Copts— Lack of Education — Mahommedan Schools — Sobriety and Honesty Among Mahommedans— Male and Female Attire— Religious Sects— Modes of Worship— The Dervishes— Visit to a Dervish Place of Worship— Hotel Ac- commodations in Alexandria — Agriculture and Irrigation — A Steam Plow in Egypt— Suez and the Red Sea— Leave for Jaflfa 190
LETTER LIII.
Leaving the Land of Egypt— Going to Jaffa— Land of Goshen— City of Bubastis —Suez— Mount Sinai— At Kantarah— Lake of Menzaleh— The Suez Canal- Port Said 195
LETTER LIV.
Near Jaffa— The Martyrs' Tower— Plains of Sharon— Battle Ground of David and Goliath— Church of the Holj' Sepulchre_St. Stephen's Gate— Valley of Jehoshaphat^Sacred Relics— Centre of the Earth. 19T
X INDEX AND CONTENTS.
LETTERLV
View of Jerusalem— Solomon's City Wall— Hole " Made by the Saviour's
Elbow"— Crowds of Beggars— Mourning Women. 199
LETTER LVI.
Leave Port Said— Jaffa — Mussulman Customs Officials— Tiavelllng Arrange- ment—The oldest Seaport in the World— Place where the Ark was Built— Jonah's Place of Embarkation— House of Simon the Tanner— Mahom- medan Funeral Ceremony- Plains of Sharon— The Martyrs' Tower— A Night in the Desert— Start for the Holy Citj'— Battle Field of David and Goliath— Resting Place of the Ark of the Covenant— Rose of Sharon— St. George's Church— Mount Zion — Mount of Olives — In Camp Before Jeru- salem 20J
LETTER LVII.
On the Mediten-anean— At Jaffa— Cheap Oranges— Visit a German Colony— Arimathea— Hills of Judea— Valley of Ajalou — Lydda of the Acts — Kirjath-jearim— Mount of Olives— The Holy City— Camp by the Jafta Gate- Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Where the Saviour was Scourged— Judg- ment Hall — Place of the Crucifixion— Valley of Jehoshaphat — Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of Zacharias- Jacob's Well — Solomon's Pools — Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Dead Sea — Ruins of Jericho — Elisha's Fountain— Gilgal— Christ's Hotel— Mosque of Omar— Judgment Seat of Solomon— Tomb of Aaron's Sons— Pool of Bethesda 20(>
LETTER LVII I.
Land at Jaffa — Orange and Lemon Orchards— German Settlements in Palestine —Valley of Ajalon— Ancient Battle Field— i hurch of the Holy Sepulchre — Start for the Dead Sea— Famous Localities Mentioned in the Scriptures — NovelWater Vessels— Bethlehem— Monastery of Mar Saba— Brook Kedron —The River Jordan— Ruins of Jericho— Mountain on Which the Saviour was Tempted— A Bedouin War Dance— Bethany— Church of the Ascension- Backsheesh- Mosque of Omar— Saddle of Mahomet — Mount Moriah — Garden of Eden— Sacred Cradle— Foundations of Solomon's Temple — Visit to the Chief Rabbi— Ancient Parchments 217
LETTER LIX.
guez — Red Sea— Port Said — On Board the " Vesta "—Anchor off Jaffa— Passports Demanded — Commencement of Tent Life — House of Simon the Tanner- Travelling to Jerusalem— Plains of Sharon— Valley of Ajalon— Valley of Elah— Mount of Olives— Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Tomb of Rachel — Bethlehem— Dead Sea— Jordan— Jericho — Gilgal — Bethany — Mosque of Omar. 22(i
LETTERLX.
One Day in Jerusalem — Rachel's Tomb— Description of the Pools of Solomon — Birthplace of the Saviour— Church of the Nativity— Grotto of the Nativity- Altar of the Innocents — Studio of St. Jerome — Bedouin Arabs— The Shepherds' Field— Convent of Mar Saba— Skulls of the Dead— An Ancient Palm Tree— River Jordan— Rencontre with Bedouins— Description of the Dead Sea 229
INDEX AND CONTENTS. XI
PAGE.
LETTER LXI.
Visit to tiie Jordan River— Sacred Localities— Singular Custom Among the Cliristians of Palestine— Fountain of Elisha— Valley of the Jordan- Brook Cherith— Plains of Jericho— The Jericho of To-day— Entertained by Bedouins— Belhany—Residonce of Mary and Martha— Tomb of Lazarus— Garden of Gethsemane. 23fi
LETTER LXII.
Topography of Jerusalem— Hill of Evil Council— Mizpeh— Mount of Olives- Valley ol Jehoshaphat— Ilinnom and Kcdron— Absalom's Pillar -Siloam— Mosque of Omar— Solomon's Temple— Hill of Zion— Tombs of the Holy City— Mount Moriah— Worship of Moloch— Scarcity of Water in Jerusa- lem—Political and Financial Condition of the Jews— Place of Lamenta- tion 244
LETTER LXIII.
Sacred Localities— The Stone of Unction— The Holy Sepulchre— The Chapel of the Angel— Hill of Calvary— The Hole in which the Cross was Planted- House of Pilate—" Behold the Man "—The True Cross— Opposition Gardens of Gethsemane — Rivalry of Christian Sects — A Terrible Massacre — Fighting Among Cliristian Zealots Prevented by Turkish Guards— Christi- anity Despised by Jews and Mahommedans. 34Jt
LETTER LXIV.
Robbers' Glen— Bethel— Ancient Shiloh— Jacob's Well— Joseph's Tomb— Mount Gerizim— Ancient Shechem— Ancient Samaria— Tomb of John the Baptist— Dothan— Plains of Esdraelon— Mountains of Gilboa— Spring of Jezreel— Suite of Rooms of Joseph and Mary— Dining Room of the Saviour and his Apostles— An Assyrian Chapel— Mount Carmel, Nain— Church of the Annunciation— Assyrian Pilgrims. 254
LETTER LXV.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Sacred Localities— Religious Services on the Mount of Olives— Dedication of the Land of Palestine— Hospice of the Knights Templars— Trades Among the Arabs— Arab Cookery— Visit to the Chief Rabbi— Valley of Hinnom— The Gibbeah of Saul— Bethel- Robbers' Glen — Mosque of Shiloh — Jacob's Well —Mounts Ebal and Gerizim — Sychar— A Gala Day— Dothan— Valley of Esdraelon— Mount Tabor. ■ 2q9
LETTER LXVI.
Farewell to Jerusalem— A Gala Day— Arab Agriculture— Nablous, Ancient Shechem — Among Ferocious People— Avengers of Blood — Cultivation of the Olive— Samaria. 364
LETTER LXVII.
A Famous Scripture Locality— A Village of Bobbers— The "Fountain of Gardens "—The Battle Field of Palestine— Mounts Tabor and Hermon— Nazareth— The Holy Grotlo— Workshop of Joseph— Table of Christ— Arab Ploughs— Cana of Galilee— An Arab School— Sea of Galilee— Tiberias- Bedouin Spinsters— Residence of Mary Magdalene— Serenaded by Bedouins —Backsheesh 270
XU INDEX AND CONTENTS.
Page. LETTER LXVIII.
Services in a Greelc Cliurch — Personal Cleanliness and Mean Dwellings of Turks and Arabs— Nazareth— Armenian Pilgrims— Hills and Plains of Galilee— Arab Villages— Communism— Novel Metliod of Churning— From Alexandria to Cairo— Sea of Galilee. 276
LETTER LXIX.
Cana of Galilee— Ancient Stone Jars— Jotapa— A Memorable Battle Field— Tiberias— Sea of Galilee — Ancient Ruins — Chorazin—Bethsaida — Site of Capernaum— Lake of Gennesareth — At Dan— Cesarea Philippi — Burial Place of Nimrod— Castle of Suboiteh— Damascus— Visit the American Consular Agent— Mosque of St. John— Interview with Abd-el Kader 279
LETTER LXX.
Leave Jerusalem— Bethel— The Robbers' Glen— Ruins of Shiloh— Jacob's "Well — Gerizim and Ebal— Shechem— City of Samaria— Church of St. John the Baptist— Dothan— Valley of Jezreel—Endor — Nazareth— Church of the Annunciation— Cana of Galilee— Dwelling place of Joseph and Mary— Tiberias— Where Nimrod was Buried— Cesarea Philippi— Damascus 287
LETTER LXXI.
Start for Beyrout— At Damascus— An Excellent Road— Massacre by Turk»— Rain— At Kob Ellas- Arrive at Beyrout— Sacred Relics— Monkish Rivalry- Physical Contrast Between Arabs and Jews— Silk Culture— Groves of Figs, Oranges, Olives and Dates. 292
LETTER LXXII.
Sea of Galilee— Tiberias— A Daughter of Juda— Visit Jewish Residences- Human Beings and Asses Dwelling in one Room— The Cleanest Town In Palestine— Mouth of Jordan— Chorazin and Bethsaida— Ruins of Magdala — A Ramble on the Sea Shore-Mount Hermon— Damascus and Its Forty Thousand Dogs. 296
LETTER LXXIII.
Leave Damascus— The only Wagon Road in Syria-Fine Scenery— Mountains of Lebanon— Beyrout— Finish of Camp Life— On Board the " Mars"— Island of Cyprus— Rhodes— Patmos—Scio— Smyrna— Lesbos-Tenedos—Dardanelli —Abydos — Gallipoli— Sea of Marmora— Golden Horn— Constantinople. 299
LETTER LXXIV.
Damascus— Reception Rooms of a Prince— River Abana— At Dimas— Large Flocks of Goats— In Camp on the Anti-LabanonMountains— The Scenery of Lebanon— Contrast Between Art and Nature— Beyrout— Silk Industry- Entertained by Turks^Adieu to Tent Life— On Board the " Mars." 302
LETTER LXXV.
Four Days at Constantinople— Visit the German Minister— Embark on the
" Mars"— Arrive at Athens— Famous Grecian Ruins— Religious Toleration. 306
LETTER LXXVI.
At Athens— Plains of Attica— Hill of Mars— Galilee— Scriptural Reminiscences Fountain of Dan— Cesarea Philippi— Damascus— An Unfortunate Archi- tect 312
INDEX AND CONTENTS. X1H
I^ETTER T. XXVII.
Leave Constantinople— Piraius— Classical Ruins— The Greek Parliament— The
Acropolis by Moonlight, 321
LETTER L X X V I I I . Be yrout— Protestant College and Schools— Embark for Constantinople— Island of Cyprus— Mount Olympus— Sea of Marmora— Arrival at the Turkish Metropolis— Leave for Athens— Greek Independence Day 324
LETTER LXXIX.
Palestine Tour Completed— Beyrout — Constantinople— Reminiscences of Cri- mean War— The Pirseus-Athens, Ancient and Modern 330
LETTER LXXX.
Sunday at Sea— The Austrian Lloyd Steamers— An Immense Ship of War- Leave for Verona — The Quadrilateral— Field of Solferino — Tomb of Romeo. 333
LETTER LXXX I.
At Athens— Classical Ruins— Peculiar Customs Among the Greeks— Funeral
Ceremony. 336
LETTER LXXXII,
Brigandage in Greece — The Classical Ruins of Athens— Leave the Pirseus- The Austrian Lloyds— At Trieste — Verona— Ancient Roman Amphitheatre— The Tyrol— Munich. 342
LETTER LXXX III.
Constantinople— Island of Syra^Athens— The Acropolis— The Areopagus- Visit the American Minister— Trieste— Verona— Munich 346
LETTER LXXXIV.
The Nile— Heliopolis— Goshen— Red Sea— Holy Places— Sea of Galilee— River
Jordan— Mountain of the Temptation 349
L E T TER LXXXV.
At Munich — Visit a Kindergarten — Employments and Pastimes of the Children— Contrast between Children of Germany and France— Conveni- ence of the Kindergartens 351
LETTER LXXXV I.
Munich— Visit a Royal Palace — Statue of Bavaria— Imperial Wedding- Vienna— The Arsenal— Summer Palace— The Great Exhibition „. 353
LETTER L-XXXVII. Stormy Weather— No Beggars— Royal Marriage— Instruments of Torture- Visit the American Legation. •• 3-50
LETTER LXXXVIII.
Principal German Cities-The,King's iPalace-A Famous Glass Factory— Glass Window Curtains— Visit the Universities—Marriage Festivities— Vienna and Its Great Exhibition— " No Place Like Home." 361
xiv INDEX AND CONTENTS.
PAGE.
LETTER L XXXIX.
At Vienna— Berlin— The Royal Palace — A Large Banquet Hall— Beautiful New Chapel— Monuments— Visit the U. S. Miuister— Freedom of Parliament — Multitudes of Soldiers— Unhealthy Moral Condition of Berlin— Hamburg- Church of St. James— In London Again. 365
LETTER XC. Leave Vienna — Bad Weather — Berlin — The Thier-Garten- Bismarck and
Moltke— Prussian Ladies— Hamburg— The Hollanders — A Land of Soldiers, 370
LETTER XCI.
In London— Attend Conference-Russian and Turkish Baths— Visit to Topes- field— Visit From the Marquis of Sligo. 374
LETTER XCII.
On the Atlantic Ocean— Hamburg— London Conference— Leave for Liverpool- Embark on the "Wisconsin." 376
LETTER XCIII.
At St. Louis— Fine Scenery— Visit Relatives. 379
TELEGRAMS. Telegrams from Salt Lake City and Evanston. 385
LETTER XCIV.
Home Again— Reception by Friends. 383
LETTER XCV.
Salutation to the Ladies of Utah. 384
CORRESPONDENCE
OF
PALESTINE TOURISTS
LETTER I
Instructions— Going to Euroi^e and Asia Minor — Openings for the Gospel — Palestine to be Dedicated — Return of the Jews — Fulfilment of Prophecy.
Salt Lake City, Utah Territory,
October 15tli, 1872. Pkesident Geoege a. Smith :
Dear Sir: — As you are about to start on an extensive tour tlirough Europe and Asia Minor, where you will doubt- less be brought in contact with men of position and inliuence in society, we desire that you observe closely wliat open- ings now exist, or where they may be effected, for the intro- duction of the Gospel into the various countries you shall visit.
When you go to the Land of Palestine, we wisli you to dedicate and consecrate that land to the Lord, that it may be blessed with fruitfulness, preparatory to the return of the
2 CORRESPONDENCE OF
Jews in fnltilment of prophecy, and the accomplishment of the purposes of our Heavenly Father.
We pray that you may be preserved to travel in peace and safety, that you may be abundantly blessed with words of wisdom and free utterance in all your conversations per- taining to the Holy Gospel, dispelling prejudice, and sowing seeds of righteousness among the people.
BRIGHAM YOUNG, DANIEL H. WELLS.
LETTER II
At Washington — Visit to the Departments — The Presidential Election— The Epizootic — Interview with President Grant — Passports for Europe.
Metropolitan Hotel, Washington, D. C,
November 2nd, 1872. Mrs. Bathsheba W. Smith:
My Dear Wife : — Elder Feramorz Little and myself called upon several heads of Departments, and other gentlemen with whom we are acquainted, but found that Secretaries Fish and Delano, and most of the others had gone to their respective States to look after the Presidential election, and be ready to vote next Tuesday.
More than half the horses in Washington are disabled by the epizootic, and but few street cars and conveyances are moving, making it difficult to get conveyances.
We called at the White House, where we expected to meet our acquaintance, Gen. Babcock, but he was absent with the rest. We sent in our cards to the President, and
PALESTINE TOURISTS, 3
were almost instantly admitted into the Keception Room. On our entrance lie arose and gave us each a cordial shake by the hand, and motioned us to seats. We told him we were about to visit the Old World, and wished to commence our journey by paying our respects to the Chief Magistrate of our country. He enquired after the material progress of Utah, her railroads, and her iron and coal mines, and said that we should manufacture our own iron, instead of buying it from abroad. We told him that we were doing so to a limited ex- tent, but would be compelled to purchase railroad iron from abroad until we could form connections between the iron and coal regions, which were generally at a distance from each other, and it would require time, and the construction of rail- road lines to connect them. We gave him some account of our progress in the manufacture of woollen goods and other necessaries, in which he seemed interested. When we arose to retire, I tendered him our thanks for the interest he had taken in our affairs in getting the Engelbrecht case before the Supreme Court before its regular order, and obtaining a decision which had released us from many embarrassments, and placed us right before the country.
The interview was a pleasant one, although President Grant was suffering from the effects of a violent cold.
We have obtained our passports from the State Depart- ment, and expect to sail from New York by the Guion line on the 6th, as our party have arranged to meet us at the St. Nicholas Hotel, New York, on the 4th.
Affectionately, your husband,
GEORGE A. SMITH.
CORRESPONDENCE OF
LETTER III
Traveling by Steam— Departure from Salt Lake City — Grood^ By — The Plains — The Missoiiri Bridge — Thunder Storm— In a Palace Car — Arri- val at Chicago,
Chicago, Illinois, October 30tli, 1872. Editoe Woman's Exponent:
Dear Lula : — Traveling with steam velocity is productive of sudden changes, my home is already considerably in the distance.
I left Salt Lake City on the morning of the 26th ; was accompanied to <)gden by several prominent ladies, where I met my brother, Lorenzo Snow, of Brigham Cit}^, with whom I traveled. President G. A. Smith, with others of his partj^, started on the 16th. We shall meet them in New York.
On board the train for the east I bade '*good by" to very many dear friends of Salt Lake and Ogden cities, who waited on the platform to see us off, and, at 6 p. m. of the 3rd day, arrived at Omaha.
In crossing the plains, I frequently drew the contrast be- tween the present and the past, and could hardly realize the present to be a living reality. To travel with ease, devoid of fatigue, in three days, a distance which a few years ago required more than three months of weariness and privations to accomplish, is certainly a very great change. * * * I took an earnest glimpse of the beautiful, stupendous bridge as we crossed the Missouri River. It is a piece of workmanship worthy of a critical daylight observation.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 5
We left Council Bluffs in the midst of one of those thun- der storms so common to that locality, beyond the necessity of artiticial irriijation. It was 9 o'clock at night, but what were the night and the storm to us ! Instead of pitcliing tents and circling beneatli a dripping roof, we were comfortably seated in a palace car and travelling at an almost incredible speed. So much for the blessings of God on the march of improve- ment. These night travels cheat us of many pleasurable scenic views, a tax which time-saving naturally brings.
At the Bluffs we took the Eock Island route to Chicago, and arrived at Davenport, where we breakfasted, and took a hasty view of the stirring, beautiful place, with the railroad bridge — one in progress of erection — all curiosities to one as little acquainted with railroads as myself. The scenerj'- from Rock Island to Chicago is variegated, and as seen while pass- ing, as we did, at times at the rate of nearly a mile per minute, is very delightful , one characteristic worthy of notice, being the freshness of verdure in comparison to what we had previ- ously passed.
We arrived here last evening at 4 o'clock, and the mis- sionaries to Europe left on the 5 o'clock train for New York. * * * My health is good, and my heart full of grati- tude. Sister Mercy R. Thompson joins in love to all our good
sisters.
ELIZA R. SNOW.
COKEESPONDENCE OF
LETTER ly.
EXTRACT FROM A LETTER TO PRESIDENT YOUNG.
Visiting Relatives at Fountain Green — Sisters of Josepli Smith, tlie Prophet — At the Birthi^lace of Joseph and Hyrum Smith — The Epizootic— Fitehbvira; — At New York.
New York City, November 1st, 1872.
Brother W. D. Fuller accompanied me here, and did his best to make me comfortable. Brother Feramorz Little went to St. Louis from Omaha. I went to Chicago by the Burling- ton road, switching off to visit Colchester and Fountain Green, at which places I found three sisters of the Prophet Joseph Smith, whom I had not seen for twenty-five years. They were very glad to see me. Sophronia McClarryisa widow, residing with her daughter, Maria Stodard, who married a man named WooUey. Catherine is living on the place that you furnished her means to purchase, and is apparently the hapjDiest woman I have seen on the journey. Her place is a piece of timber land, which your last bounty enables her to increase to twenty acres, and as in all her life she has never been able to enjoy a home of her own for a single hour, her gratitude to you seems unbounded.
Arthur Milliken rents a house at Colchester at nine dollars per month, and spends his time weighing coal for the railroad company, for which he receives a regular salary. His boys are at work digging in the mines, and the family are living quite comfortably. I did not fail to tell them that the}^ ought to be in the mountains, striving to build up Zion.
1' A L p] S T I N E T O U K I S T S . 7
I took the Grand Trunk Railroad through Canada to Boston, stopping one day in St. Lawrence County and passing through the towns in Vermont where Joseph and Hyrum Smith were born, and through the tow^n in New Hampshire w^here my father was born.
While at Boston business was much paralyzed by sick- ness among the hor^ies, the streets being silent. A few j^oke of oxen were all that could be seen, moving express wagons.
I spent the Sabbath with the Hon. Alva Crocker, M. C, of Fitchburg, Mass., whose family took every pains to make us comfortable, and he exhibited to us to the best advantage the wonderful manufa'^tories of that place. His kind feelings towards our people, so often manifested in Congress, are repeated by him whenever opportunity offers. He wishes to be remembered to you.
Brother Feramorz Little and family arrived in New York to-day, all well. They have had an agreeable visit, among others, with Malcolm Little's family.
I was glad to learn that the brethren expecting to accom- pany me had started and that Brother Schettler was also to arrive here in time to cross the sea with us. I am very glad of this, as I do not wish to remain long in the damp climate of England, and I shaU be in favor of crossing the channel as soon as consistent.
Brother Thomas Taylor and daughter arrived to-day. Brother Feramorz Little and myself go to Washington by the night train. We have seen Brother Spencer Clawson, he is well and in good spirits. Brother Staines is very busy out- fitting small parties of emigrants who have unexpectedly
made their appearance.
GEORGE A. SMITH.
8 CORRESPONDENCE OF
LETTER V.
Riding Five Days and Five Nights— Arrival in New York— Members of the Company — Missionaries for Europe.
St. Nicholas' Hotel, New York City,
1 a.m., November 6tli, 1872.
Editors Salt Lake Herald:
I arrived liere yesterday morning at 7 o'clock, after a ride of five days and five nights, and was very busy all day arrang- ing for onr passage to Liverpool. Our company consists of Elders George A. Smith, Lorenzo Snow, George Dunford, An- son Call, Feramorz Little, Miss Eliza R. Snow, Miss Clara S. Little, Mrs. Mary R. Thompson, Mrs. Mary A. Fielding and myself, also a number of our missionaries who are going to Europe, but whose names I have not been able to ascertain. We intend to leave at 9 a. m. to-day, onhoaid the Minnesota. Elders Thomas Taylor, Jacob Weiler and W. D. Fuller are returning home. We are all well and anticipate a pleasant time. You will hear from me again after we arrive in Eng- land.
Very truly yours,
PAUL A. SCHETTLEB.
PALESTINE TOURISTS
LETTER VI
On the Ocean— Sea-sickness— At Davenport— At Buflfalo— Niagara Falls— The Railway Suspension Bridge— Crossing to Canada.
Steamer "Minnesota," 800 miles from Liverpool,
November 15tli, 1872. My Dear Miss Greene:
Here I am in the midst of the ocean. We embarked, as we had anticipated, on the 6th. The sea was calm and sailing pleasant till towards night, when the winds became too strong for the sails— they were all fnrled, which produced a rolling motion of the vessel, conducive to sea-sickness with some of the passengers. We liave had considerable rough weather, but now all is calm. I have experienced a slight touch of that disquieting malady called sea-sickness, just enough to make my appetite inexpensive for two or three days, and to cause a little cleansing of the stomach for my future benefit.
The short period of time since leaving my Mountain Home has introduced me to much that has been interesting; my health has been good, and tlius tar my endurance of the fatigue (if anything I have experienced is worthy to be called such) has been beyond my expectations. • * * *
On entering Davenport I remarked that they could not run street cars there, but I was mistaken, for presently I saw one despite the narrowness of the streets, some of which are very handsome. Davenport is a pleasant, stirring town, but, like all other towns and cities I have seen since I left Salt Lake, it seems destitute of sufficient land to give elbow room to the streets.
10 CORRESPONDENCE OF
We stopped two hours in Buffalo— a rainy morning, but I wanted to see Buffalo and took a Jong ramble for that pur- pose. From Buffalo we went to Niagara — crossed into Canada on the new suspension bridge, over which the railroad trains pass, to view the Falls ; and, after witnessing those scenes of nature in her display of the grand and beautiful, we recrossed on the old bridge. From descriptions from various sight-seers, my imagination had been whetted to an appreciative idea, so far as the majestic grandeur of tlie scenery is concerned ; but its beauty — so chaste, so indescribably delicate — I had not an- ticipated. In fact, without actual, personal . view, I never could have comprehended such a harmonious combination of power and delicacy. Imagine for a moment a body of water falling in a magnificent volume to a great distance, and form- ing in its descent a mantle of pure, sparkling white, of ever changing folds, over a robe of th^ most delicate sliade of green that either the dye of art or of nature can produce — at times the green appearing as if approaching the surface — at other times seen obscurely — the chaste and beautiful snow}^ white ever preponderating ; while from the depths below springs are con- stantly ascending, apparently as far as the eye can reach, and then dropping in heavy mists on the ever humid surroundings. But after so many able pens have descanted upon this subject, it seems like folly for mine to attempt it. I leave it, after drawing the conclusion that Mark Twain was induced to speak indifferently respecting this celebrated curiosity, lest he should be suspected of doing or thinking for once like somebody- else.
As yet I have had but little opportunity for writing, the passage being rough makes it difficult.
E. E. SNOW.
P. S. Still pleasant, and all right. Nov. 17, 180 miles from Queen stown.
E. E. S.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. H
LETTER VII.
Neariug Queenstown— Departure from New York— Rain and Wind at Sea— Sea-sickness— Headwinds— Smooth Sea and Fair Winds—" Crossing the Atlantic," a Poem by Miss E. R. Snow.
Steamship "Minnesota," November KJtli, 1872.
At Noon, 2,554 Knots from Nexo Jorlc.
Editors Salt Lake Herald:
The sea being very calm to-day, I think I cannot do better than pen you a few lines, to be mailed on our expected arrival at Queenstown on Monday morning, the 18th inst. We left pier 46 in New York at 9.45 a. m. on the 6th inst., bidding adieu to Messrs. Staines, John W. Young and lady, Bishop Thomas Taylor and Messrs. Jacob Weiler, S. B. Young and W. D. Fuller, the former having done all he possibly could to make us comfortable on our passage over the Atlantic.
As soon as we had passed Sandy Hook it commenced raining and a heavy breeze was swelling our sails. The con- sequence was that Miss Clara S. Little and Mr. Anson Call soon felt the effects of being afloat, and during the night and the two following days all of us, Mr. Dunford excepted, followed suit. We made pretty good time, our log book showing 263, 270, 260 and 258 knots for the first four days, and after re- covering a little from the first attacks of sea-sickness, we commenced to enjoy our meals up to the 12th, when the wind shifted towards the east, and during about thirty-six hours we had to contend against heavy head-winds, which
12 CORRESPONDENCE OF
made tlie steamer roll and pitch tremendously, and not only turned our stomachs inside out, but tossed about and upset everything that was not very securely fastened in the saloon and in our small staterooms.
President Gfeorge A. Smith had a pretty hard time of it, as he could liardly turn over in his berth ; but with the rest of us the contrary was the case, as we were continually rolled from one side to the other, and had to brace ourselves against some part of the berth to prevent our being pitched out. Miss E. R. Snow has stood the voyage and sea-sickness so far, as well as any of us, and has given us a good deal of intellectual enjoyment. Mr. Call had to suffer the most, but he is getting over it now. Since the 14th we have had pretty fair wind, and to-day the sea is remarkably smooth. All are well now and in good spirits, and we pass away the time in reading in different guide books and making our plans for future journeyings.
As I informed you before, our excursion party now consists of seven, viz.— President George A. Smith, Elders Lorenzo Snow, Feramorz Little and George Dunford, and Miss Eliza R. Snow, Miss Clara S. Little and myself. Mrs. Mary R. Thompson and Mrs. Mary A. Fielding are travelling with us to England ; also Elder Anson Call, who is going on a short mission. The names of the other missionaries on board are John I. Hart, Mark Lindsey, John Martin, Wm. Parker, Wm. Bircumshaw, Thomas Snarr, Hugh S. Gowan and Henry B. Wild with wife and child. They are all well.
I enclose you a copy of a nice little poem written by Miss Eliza R. Snow, entitled " Crossing the Atlantic," a copy of which she presented to our captain, who highly appre- ciated it.
Very truly yours,
PAUL A. SCHETTLER.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. ]3
CROSSING THE ATLANTIC.
Written at Sea by Miss Eliza R. Snow, of Salt I^ake (Jity, Utah.
We're on the "Minnesota,"
A ship of "Guion Line," Which boasts her Captain Morgan,
The geo'rons, staunch and kind.
Amid the heaving waters That form the liquid plain ;
With fou.r and twenty draft feet The steamer jjloughs the main.
I'm gazing on the ocean
As on the deck I stand, And feel the cooling breezes With Avhich the sails ai-e fanned.
By sunlight, star and moonlight, And tranquil evening shade,
The ever varying features Of ocean I've su.rveyed.
At times with restless motion.
As if her spirit grieves — As tho' her breast were paining.
Her mighty bosom heaves.
And then, vast undulations.
Like the rolling prairies spread: With wave on wave dissolving, With tumbling, dashing tread.
Upon the deep, dark billows,
Broad, foaming whitecaps rise. And sprays in dazzling beauty, Shoot upwai-d to the skies.
'Tis now a plain, smooth surface.
As tho' in cozy sleep Were wrapped each wave and billow
Upon the briny deep.
14 CORRESPONDENCE OF
But hark ! The Captain orders The furling ev'ry sail;
Storm clouds and head-winds rising Portend a coming gale.
Anon all Neptune's furies Are on the steamer's jjath ;
"We mount the deck to witness The ocean in its wrath.
The scene ! What pen can write it ?
"What pencil's art could show The wild, terrific grandevir
Which reigns around lis now ?
The waving, surging waters, Like battle armor clash ;
Tumultuous waves upheaving "With foaming fury dash.
The steamer mounts the billows, Then dips the space below ;
And bravely presses onward, Tho' reeling to and fro.
"We're sailing on the ocean
"With wind and sail and steam ;
"Where views of "terra firma" Are like the poet's dream.
The God who made the waters— Who made the solid land,
Is ours — our Great Protector, Our life is in His hands.
Subservient to His counsel — Confiding in His care —
Directed by His wisdom. There's safety everywhere.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 15
LETTER VIII
On Terra Firma — Ben Butler — At the St. Nicholas Hotel — West Point — In- terview with Officials — A Drive Round Central Park.
Liverpool, England, November 19th, 1872. Editor Woman's Exponent:
My Dear Lula: — I am now on ^' terra tirma," buf so highly elevated that I almost claim to be tilling an serial posi- tion, being located on the fourth tloor in the " North- Western Hotel," a spacious building. The room I occupy, in company with Mrs. Thompson and Miss Little, fronts St. George's Hall, said to be the largest edifice in the city.
In my last, I left you with the Falls of Niagara. I do not recollect anything of special interest occurring between there and New York, unless the presence of Hon. Ben. Butler should be so considered. Not having seen him, I felt consid- erable interest when it was announced that he was on the train, and to my entire satisfaction , he entered the car in which I was riding, and seated himself where I had a good view of his ample phiz. As we arrived at towns by the way, the citizens, no doubt having been apprised of his coming, were out in masses, to whom he delivered electioneering speeches, w^hich were listened to with the usual enthusiasm of such occasions. For my part, I feel to respect any man who pos- sesses sufficient independence of character, in this age of political bribery, to speak as he thinks — which I believe Ben Butler does.
We arrived in New York on Sunday morning; it was
16 CORRESPONDENCE OF
raining, but luckily for us, the beautiful depot afforded us shelter, while, after considerable delay, a carriage (probably the property of some unpopular intidel) was j)rocured to carry ourselves and our baggage to St. Nicholas' Hotel. The fact of our arrival on the Sabbath was the cause of delay; this very religious people have plenty of cabs and hacks to receive strangers on other days of the week, which stronglj^ reminds me of a class of religionists referred to in New Testa- ment history. I am now speaking in general terms — there are very excellent people living in New York, I know sev- eral, although my knowledge is very limited.
St. Nicholas' Hotel is a splendid establishment — it con- tains 600 rooms and accommodates from ten to eleven hun- dred occupants. It is freely ventilated, and so warmed with pipes running in various directions as to keep an equili- brium of temperature. Water is conveyed to and from the rooms in pipes, so that you are not stinte'd — you can wash yourself and rinse too, if you choose. The whole establish- ment is lighted with gas, and you can have as much light as you please; yet I think there is an extra charge if you keep it burning all night. What I consider an enormity is the charge of one dollar per daj^ for fire, however small it may be; and then tlie porter graciously expects a small fee for his condescension in making it for you. But that is all very ^ell — he is so obliging and does it so much better than any one else.
I stayed three nights in New York— spent two days in the city and one in visiting Willard Young at West Point. In company of President George A. Smith, my brother and Bro- ther Dunford, I went to the office of the Notary Public, the kind and affable Mr. None, before whom I solemnly sub- scribed to my allegiance to the United States Government, etc., according to due fonn of law, and he made out my application, which he promised to send to Washington for my passport, which I expect to meet in London on my arrival.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 17
In conversation with Mr. None, Brother Smith spoke of his rdjerjtion from the Philadelphia Convention, on account of his religion, when Mr. None exclaimed, emphatically, "How ridiculous ! " He expressed much pleasure on meeting Pres- ident Smith, saying he was the first official of our people with whom he had met. We then called on the "Consul General of the German Empire," Mr. Roesing, where we met the very gentlemanly JMr. Schleiden, mi^mber of the German Parliament. Both thise gentlemen had visited Salt Lake, where they made Brother Smith's acquaintance. They spoke of their visit in the highest terms.
Through the kindness of Brother J. W. Young, I enjoyed a pleasant turn around Central Park ; and here, amid its shades, fountains, equestrian statues, etc. etc., I leave you for the present.
ELIZA R. SNOW.
18 COKRESPOXDENCE OF
LETTER IX
At Liverpool — Visit to the Workhouse, It Covers Nine Acres of Ground — The Shoemakers' Quarters — Picking Oakvim— Paupers do not Like Work — Tlieir Sleeping Rooms — Apartments of the Female Inmates Tea and Bread and Butter— The Laundry — The Childrens' Apartments — "Poor Little P^orsaken" — The Hospital — The Dining Room— The Church — Monument to Agnes Jones — The Vagabonds' Apartment.
Liverpool, England, November 20th, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
Through the blessings of kind Providence, we have safely crossed the Atlantic, and are now in Liverpool.
All are in good health and excellent spirits. We were twelve and a half days crossing the ocean, and were well pleased with the steamer Minnesota and its accommodations. The captain, James Morgan, we found to be a kind, affable, and intelligent gentleman. We anchored in the Mersey on the 19th, at 1 a. in. Early next morning Pn^sident A. Car- rington and son, accompanied by Elders J. G. Bleak and. G. F. Gibbs, joined us on board ; and through tlie hospitality of the Captain we breakfasted together.
Presuming that you have been posted, through ether sources, concerning our tour thus far, I will proceed to give you a brief sketch from my journal, of "Two hours in a Workhouse."
Liverpool embraces many objects of curiosity and interest, among" which is its celebrated workhouse. Through the interest of some friends and the courtesy of Mr. Teasdale, the Deputy Governor of the establishment, I had an oppor-
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 19
t unity, in company with Elder J. G. Bleak, of visiting these magniticent premises. An area of nine acres is covered by this enormous pile of buildings, being nearly one half mile in circumference. In 1868 its inmates numb(;rod ry^iJOO. At present the number is reduced to 2,300, all of whom are recognized as paupers. They are admitted into this institu- tion by virtue of their citizenship in Liverpool parish, and their entire inability to provide their own living.
The management of this workhouse is under the super- vision of a committee elected by the people of the parish, and is conducted on tlie most economical principles, but in no sense approaching a point of self-sustaining. It is sup- ported principally by city taxation, with slight assistance by appropriations through the influence of some member of the British Parliament, who has taken it, I believe, as a kind of pet child, under his protection. In the year 1871 its expenses amounted to about |700.000. It consumes, in the winter season , coal , averaging per week 120 tons. Cost of provisions consumed by the paupers in 1869 was estimated at $100,000. The expenses, the same year, for educating pauper children, were nearly $5,000.
Mr. Teasdale conducted us through the various depart- ments explaining, and answering our many inquiries. The first building we entered embraced the quarters appropriated to shoemakers, consisting chiefly of aged men, who were busily engaged and appeared contented. The boots and shoes, when made, were given to the inmates of the establishment as their necessities demanded. In the next department men were picking oakum ; in another, others were picking to pieces and preparing material for stuffing cushions, sofas, &c. I asked Mr. Teasdale whether this business, together with others in which the paupers were engaged, could not be made lucrative. He said that, as a general rule, the paupers were disinclined to labor, and exercised considerable ingenuity to avoid work ; furthermore, that a large majority of them were
20 CORRESPONDENCE OF
aged, sickly, and broken down in body and mind, that they were compelled to labor, more for a moral effect and to retard others from unnecessarily crowding the institution, than for any pecuniary advantage. In the course of my con- versation with this gentleman, I discovered that the managers of the workhouse kept in view the idea that paupers were naturally inclined to avoid work ; but the interests of the institution demanded that it should be rendered impossible. We examined their sleeping apartments. They were extraor- dinarily neat and tolerably well ventilated. They were all fur- nished with good bedsteads and good comfortable beds, made of soft material, with clean bedding in abundant sup- ply. The sleeping rooms contained, each, about thirty-two single beds, arranged in rows on each side, the rows being about fifteen feet apart.
We visited the buildings and apartments appropriated to the women. We were ushered into a spacious room, where I viewed with astonishment a most indescribable scene. With a feeling of profound respect, I uncovered my head. Two hundred tidily dressed, venerable appearing, gray-haired matrons, seated on benches of two rows extending the whole length of the extensive apartment, were plying their needles, knitting stockings in solemn silence. What a spectacle I Some of these unfortunate mothers of men once moved in the circles of wealth and fashion, ere the cruel floods of adversity engulphed them beneath their seething billows.
We were conducted into other buildings and apartments for women. In one of these about twenty paupers were seated around a table enjoying their tea with bread and butter. We passed through a lengthy hall containing numerous rooms, in each of which were two single beds and a coal grate, designed for two women, who were furnished weekly with provisions, instead of having it dealt out daily, according to general regulations. We visited the washing and drying departments, where a battalion of women in a
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 21
fog of steam were engaged in washing immense quantities of sheets, shirts, blankets, etc., for the entire institution. They had an ingenious arrangement for drying by the application of steam. We were conducted into the apartment tor cut- ting garments, another for making them up. We also visited one appropriated to pauper children, where we saw a nice lot of them, some very pretty and intelligent looking, all clean and well dressed, and many of them orphans, some entirely ignorant of their parentage, being foundlings. I noticed with peculiar interest one lovely infant, which had recently been found one stormy night, abandoned. Poor little forsaken I Why not have waited or sought your path into life by way of Utah, where you would have been recognized and appre- ciated ?
We next visited the hospital department. Two hundred and seventy were on the sick list, mostly very elderly peo- ple. The hospital consisted of numerous rooms with an average of thirty single beds. Many of the invalids had been confined to their beds for several years, their diseases affording no prospects of recovery. In a frame a record is suspended over each sufferer, giving name, age, with date of reception into workhouse, nature oi disease, and how treated and dieted. Excellent nurses are provided for these sufferers.
The largest dining hall seats 800. In this, every Sabbath, Roman Catholic service is performed. An Episcopal church constitutes a portion of this mass of buildings ; it is well seated and has a fine organ.
I noticed, as a matter of curiosity, a marble statue repre- senting an angel with extended wings. It was carved at Leghorn and placed here to honor and perpetuate the memory of Agnes Jones, a wealthy lady, daughter of an Irish Colonel. This estimable and philanthropic woman devoted her large fortune to the relief of the poor, and while administering to the sufferers in this institution she contracted a contagious disease, of which she died at the age of thirty-six years. A
22 C O R E E S P O N D E N C E OF
beautiful epitaph is inscribed upon lier monument, written by the Bishop of Derby, and also lines with deep expression by Florence Nightingale.
Finally we came to apartments appropriated to vaga- bonds. Here philanthropy exhibited itself upon a higher plane. A bath, supper and breakfast, could be obtained by any vagrant outside of Liverpool parish. To obtain these benefits, the participant must enter the register's office, have his name registered, then be conducted to the bath-room, where he undergoes a thorough process, to wit, stripped, soaked, soaped, and scrubbed, and having his clothes replaced, is served to a dish of soup, then admitted to a clean cot for the night. For these services he is required to render compensation in labor in the morning, after which he receives another dish of soup and departs. This department is never crowded.
We were introduced to Mr. Wilkie, the Governor of the Workhouse, with whom we had an interesting interview. On our leaving he politely proffered to send to my address written information on any point I might wish in relation to the institution.
My "Two hours in a Workhouse," constitutes a very interesting item in my experience.
LORENZO SNOW.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 23
LETTER X.
Crossing the Hudson— Visit to West Point— Trophies of War— Putnam's Fort— Tete-a-tete with a Student— Information about Palestine— Leave New York.
Liverpool, England, November 20tli, 1872. Editor Woman's Exponent:
My Dear Lula: — In my last, I left you at Central Park in New York. Early next morning, (5tli of Nov.,) in com- pany of Brother Feramorz Little, Sister Little, Clara S. Little and her little brother Frank, also Brother Spencer Clawson, I took the cars for West Point, where we arrived at 10 a. m., after crossing the beautiful Hudson River on a steam ferry-boat.
West Point is a delightful point. The natural scenery is variegated and imposing. Having one hour to while away before we could have an interview with the object of our visit, Mr. Willard Young, we strolled around the premises, viewing the objects of interest, and some tilings, which to us, promoters of peace, were not particularly interesting. Great numbers of cannon, of various forms and sizes, were to be seen in different places— some from Mexico, others from the Crimea, preserved as specimens ; also a portion of the ponderous iron chain whicli the Americans stretched across the Hudson, in the Revolutionary war, to impede the British ships. I admired the beautiful green area, with its fine shade trees, surrounded by rugged hills ; on the top of the highest, in the distance, Putnam's Fort is to be seen, which is said to remain precisely as the veteran General, whose name it bears,
24 CORRESPONDEXCE OF
built, and left it. The next hour was very pleasantly spent in a tete-a-tete with the young military student, whom we found in good health and spirits, and returned to New York at 4 p. m.
That evening Mr. Richardson and lady called on us ; he has been a traveller in Palestine and gave us much interesting information respecting it. Before we left New York, the number in the hotel, from Utah, amounted to twenty.
ELIZA R. SNOW.
LETTER XI
On Board the " Minnesota"— First Sight of the Ocean— Arrival inLiverpool— Dense, Interminable Fog— Leave for London— English Railway Cars — No Sleeping Cars — English Rural Scenery — Poem, " London," by Miss E. R. Snow.
London, England, November 24th, 1872. Editor Woman's Exponent:
Dear Lula : — I wrote you from Liverpool up to our last evening in New York.
On the morning of the 6th we went on board the steamer Minnesota, and, through tlie kindness of Brother W. C. Staines, were very comfortably quartered, and soon launclied forth into the Hudson and from thence into the broad ocean.
I saw the ocean for the first time, and was in nothing so disappointed as its color, which is, when calm, dark, very dark, yes, positively black, and to me appeared like a mass of ]ava. I wanted to look at it poetically, and watched intently for "blue waves," or even '^green waves," but to no
PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 25
purpose, except when the waters were stirred, then, beneath the white foam, the bine, and more particularly the green, were observable. I was but little sea-sick, and although our ■passage was rougli, I enjoyed it. It was raining w^hen we arrived in Liverpool on the morning of the 19th. Tlie North- western Hotel, where we stopped, is a iinely constructed building, with many accommodations, but is conducted altogether too ceremoniously to consult convenience and com- fort. We stayed two days in the dense, interminable fog of Liverpool, where they have more light by night from gas than the sun affords them by day.
The first day I spent in writing, with a very agreeable and interesting visit to the sanctum of President Carrington ; on the second, a severe cold prevented my visiting the work- house, as I had anticipated, a sketch of which my brother Lorenzo has written to the Deseret News.
We left Liverpool for London by train at 9 a.m., and arrived at 2 p. m.— two hundred and three miles. The cars in England, instead of being open from end to end and the seats all in one view, as in America, are petitioned into boxes containing two seats, the first-class seating six persons, three on each seat, face to face ; ai=id tlie second-class eight, four on each seat. These compartments open only on the out- side, so that there is no communication between the diiferent sections. Here the distances are so short compared with those of Americi that sleeping* cars are not in use.
I was deliglited with the appearance of the country between Liverpool and this city. Even at this sterile season of the year it is picturesque, and must be very, very beautiful when the fields, which are enclosed by scrupulously neat hedges, are clothed with fresh vegetation.
With this brief letter, I will enclose a poem I have just written, entitled
26 C 0 E R E S P O N D E N C E OF
LONDON
Far, far away from our dear native land,
In England's great Metropolis we stand ;
Where art and skill — labor and wealth combine
With time's cooperation in design
Of superstructure's bold and beauteous form,
With all varieties of strength and charm.
Here massive columns — stately towers, arise, And lift their spires in greetings to the skies ; Fine parks and gardens, palaces and halls. With sculptured niches — frescoe-painted walls ; Where no expense is spared to beautify, Nor time, nor toil, to captivate the eye. We saw, and viewing, courteously admired The master strokes by Genius' hand inspired.
To "Xew Westminster Palace" we resort. Where the Chief Justice holds his au.gust court ; 'Twas then in session, and the Exchequer too — In wig and gown — a grand, imposing view ! The House of Lords and Commons too , we saw, But not those grave expounders of the law.
With deferential thought we fixed ovir gaze. There, in the "Prince's Hall," where face to face On either side, on carved projections stood, With features varied as in life's warm blood, White marble statues, from the sculj^tor's hand, Of British Statesmen, men who could command The power of eloquence — the force of mind, A mighty nation's destinies to bind^ Chatham, Pitt, Granville, Walpole, Fox, beside Others who're justly England's boast and pride.
We visited the "Abbey," Avhere repose in state The eflflgies of many good and great, With some whose deeds are well deserving hate. Group'd in the "Poets' Corner," here, we found, With rich, artistic sculpture trophies crown'd. The mem'riesof the muse's world-renowned.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 27
In some compartments where old massive stones Comprise the flooring, lie their mouldering bones, And we with reverential footsteps tread Above the ashes of the illustrious dead.
Great London City, mart of wealth and power,
Home for the wealthy — charnel for the poor !
And here, amid its boasted pomp and pride.
Some faithful Soldiers of the Cross reside —
A few choice spirits, whom the watchman's care.
By humble search, found scatter' d here and there,
"Like angels' visits, few and far between,"
As patient gardeners sep' rate clusters glean.
They barter earth's allurements and device
To gain the "Pearl" of great and matchless price.
And what to them the honors, pride and show.
That perish with their using, here below ?
Their hopes are high— their noble aims extend
Where life and peace and progress never end ;
Where God's own Kingdom Time's last knell survives,
Crowned with the gifts and powers of endless lives.
ELIZA R. SNOW.
28 CORRESPONDENCE OF
LETTER XII
A Conference— Passed Queenstown— Arrival at Liverpool— Scattering of the Members of the Party — Arrival in London — The Albert Memorial — The Princess Theatre— Houses of Parliament — Under-ground Railway — Attend Meetings — George J. Adams and the Holy Land.
London, England, November 24th, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:
Dear Brother : — Having just returned from the confer- ence held to-day, at East India Dock Road, to our boarding house, I feel like dropping you a few lines. We passed Queenstown on the 18th inst., at 4 a. m., and reached Liver- pool on the 19th at 1.30 a. m. Brother Carrington with his son Brigham, Brothers Bleak, Gibbs and a few others, came alongside the Minnesota in a tug boat at 7 a. m., to bid us welcome, and we were very glad to meet them. After taking breakfast with them, we went ashore, soon got through with the examination of our luggage, and drove to the ''North Western Hotel," opposite St. George's Hall, where we found good and comfortable quarters, and felt thankful to be on terra firma again. We spent the rest of the day and the day following partly at "42" and partly in attending to busi- ness matters and making other preparations for our further journey.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 29
Brother Dunford went to Trowbridge, Wilts, to visit his friends, and Sister Tliompson, wlio is still with us, went to Preston for the same purpose. Thursday the 21st, at 9.15 a. m., Brothers George A. Smith, Lorenzo Snow and Feramorz Little, and Sisters Eliza R. Snow, Clara S. Little, Mercy Thompson, and myself took train for London where we arrived at 2.30 p. m. and put up at Mr. Cook's boarding house, opposite the British Museum, which is a very quiet place. Brother Junius Wells met us at Willsden Junction and is now stopping with us.
On the morning of the 22nd a few of us called at Mr. Cook's office, but his son was out of town, and we intend to meet him to-morrow and see if we can make any satisfactory arrangements with him. We have seen several parties who have been travelling with his coupons, and under his arrange- ments, who speak very favorably of him. About noon we drove to the Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, which is a very fine specimen of art and workmanship, but as the weather was very wet and unpleasant we gave up the further part of our programme for that day, and returned to our lodgings. In the evening five of our party, with Brother George Crismon, visited the Princess' Theatre, and saw "Hamlet" performed in very fine style. Yesterday we visited the Houses of Parlia- ment and Westminster Abbey, Westminster Bridge, and thence, per under -ground railway, to Charing Cross and Tra- falgar Square. The evening we spent writing up our journals. This morning at 8.45 we drove to the Conference meeting house. East India Dock Road, five miles distant, and had two higlily interesting meetings, at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m. Most of the Elders made short remarks, and President George A. Smith and Elder Lorenzo Snow delivered very interesting discourses to the Saints and to quite a sprinkling of strangers, who were present.
At the close of the meeting George J. Adams, of former notoriety, came on the stand to see President George A. Smith,
30 CORRESPONDENCE OF
and gave us an invitation to call on him, in order to give us some useful information in regard to the Holy Land, where he has resided.
We are all well and in fine spirits. Yours truly,
PAUL A. SCHETTLER.
LETTER XIII
In London— Full Description of the National Monument— The Grandest Monument in the World— One Hundred and Eighty Feet High— Its Construction— Mass of Concrete— Substructure of Brick— The Podium- One Hundred and Eighty Marble Statues— The Tabernacle— Lofty Spire set with Thousands of Gems— Embossed Globe— Statue of Prince Albert —Faith, Hope, Charity and Humility.
London, England, November 28th, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
In company with President Smith and party I visited the Prince Consort National Monument. It is situated in Ken- sington Gardens, in the central part of the Metropolis. It is designed to perpetuate the name of Prince Albert, also to show the high estimation in which he was held by the British nation, likewise to represent allegorically, by sculpture and Mosaic pictures, the arts and sciences which he fostered, and to point to some of his important undertakings, the Great National Exhibition being the foremost.
For grandeur of design and excellency and beauty of workmanship I believe it e>:cels every other structure of a commemorative character in any part of the world. In ap-
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 31
proacliing it I. was struck with astonishment by its beauty and magnificence. A vast column, covered from base to pinnacle, with beautiful sculptures, rich carvings, embossed and Mosaic work of the most elegant description, beautiful foliage of beaten metal, fine enameling, the whole being set out in artistical order with twelve thousand gems sparkling like stars in the firmament.
This monument, including the foundation, rises one hun- dred and eighty feet above the surrounding ground, termi- nating in a large ball, embossed, supporting a magnificent cross. It commences with a mass of concrete sixty feet square, seventeen feet thick, overlaid with two courses of thick stone ; upon this is erected a substructure of massive brick work, upon which the great column is based. The base of this column or " podium," as it is termed, is about twelve feet high, surrounded by one hundred and eighty marble statues about six feet in height, representing men of all ages, distinguished in the arts and sciences. This podi- um, built of massive blocks of granite, forms the foundation for the " Shrine" or Tabernacle, a vast canopy about fifty feet high, richly ornamented, beneath which, upon a lofty pedestal, will be placed the colossal statue of the Prince. This Tabernacle is supported by four clusters of pillars of finely polished granite of various colors. Several of these pillars are two feet in diameter, held together, in part, by an ornamental band of bronze set with polished "gem-like stones;" and in part are cemented by a dove-tail groove to the central core, around which they cluster. The Tabernacle is terminated by four gables ornamented with Mosaic pictures and decorated with carvings and enamel work and polished gem-like stones, some of them nearly four inches in diame- ter. Upon this tabernacle is reared a lofry spire of cast iron work, ornamented in the most magnificent style and set with thousands of gems. Out from this Tabernacle, near its angles, arise four small structures built in imitation, in many
32 C 0 R R E S P O N L> E X 0 E OF
respects, of the principal one, being enriclied and highly ornamented from base to pinnacle. This column, or spire, the same as the Tabernacle which forms its base, is sur- rounded with statues at successive heights, standing in its ornamented niches, and at their angles.
Four of these figures, standhig in niches above the base of tht, -spire, are eight and a half feet high, the four at the angles are seven and a half in heiglit; far above them, the spire is flanked by statues six and a half feet high, repre- senting angels; and still higher, other figures six feet in height with a like representation. These sixteen statues are all of copper.
This lofty spire is crowned with a magnificent globe, beautifully embossed, supporting a great cross highly orna- mented.
A vast pyramid of granite steps surrounds this monu- ment. The total length of these steps is equal to two miles and a half, and the number of steps is eighteen hundred and three. Several of the blocks of granite in the base of the column and in the pillars weigh fifteen tons each ; the working of each of these stones occupied twelve men sixteen weeks. The iron girders which bear the spire weigh twenty- three tons, and the weight resting upon them is two hundred and ten tons. The spire is made of iron built up in stages and bolted together ; the girders are of wrouglit iron. The gems and inlays are formed of vitreous enamel, spar, agates and onyxes, more than twelve thousand in number ; two hundred of these are real onyxes, many of them nearly four inches in diameter.
The genera] features of the design are thus delineated : The Prince is to be represented by a colossal statue seated upon a lofty pedestal beneath this magnificent canop}^; around and above him are gath^^red in series and in groups the most beautiful works of man, illustrating the arts and sciences which he promoted, and the subjects to which he
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 33
devoted his attention. Upon foar large pedestals, composed of blocks of granite, at the outer angle of the steps, the four quarters of the globe are represented by groups of marble statues. Upon the pedestal forming the angles of the podium, or base of the Tabernacle, are groups of marble statues illus- trative of Agriculture, Manufactures, Commerce and Engin- eering. Again, still above, on pedestals of polished granite, are statues in bronze, representing Astronomy, Chemistry, Geology and Geometry. Above these is another set or order of bronze statues representing Rhetoric, Medicine, Philoso- phy and Physiology. The four sides of the podium contain one hundred and eighty marble statues, representing emi- nent artists in Printing, Sculpture, Architecture, Music and Poetry. From the base to the roof of this Tabernacle, the vrhole range of arts and sciences is illustrated. The column above is devoted to illustrating Virtue and Religion. The four statues in the niches of the spire, point to the Christian vir- tues— Faith, Hope, Cliarity and Humility. The four figures at ther angles represent the moral virtues — Fortitude, Pru- dence, Justice and Temperance. The four angels above them are in attitudes signifying resignation of worldly honors, while those above, surrounding the base of the cross, are in attitudes as if desiring celestial happiness.
Here, I will close my sketch of this curious and wonderful specimen of intellectual and physical effort, so happily and beautifully displayed in this magnificent monumental struc- ture.
LORENZO SNOW.
34 CORRESPONDEXCE OF
LETTER XIV
Description of the Tower of London — When Built — Queen Elizabeth's Ar- mory—Cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, Ralstone, &c. — The Horse Armory — Coats of Mail and Weapons of Different Ages— Torture Rooms— Ann Boleyn — Earl of Essex — Lady Jane Grey — Executioner's Axe — Instru- ments of Torture — Regalia and Jewel House.
London, England, November 30tli, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
If one wishes to indulge in melanchoh' or the sympa- thetic, he should visit the "Tower of London," and devote an hour or two in examining its mouldering records and crumbling inscriptions, pointing to heart-rending scenes en- acted in j)ast ages within its dark and gloomy walls.
In comi)any with President Smith and others of our tourists, I visited this place, although not for the purpose above mentioned.
It is a sombre mass, consisting principally of antique walls, gates, portcidlis, bastions, moat and twelve towers. None of the excellency, beauty, splendor and grandeur is exhibited in these structures as is seen in Prince Albert's Monument. Simplicity and solidity are characteristics of its architecture ; I was impressed with no other, with the excep- tion of oppressive gloominess.
About thirteen acres are enclosed by the moat surrounding the Tower and a double line of walls and bulwarks encircles inside the moat, with a street running between, except on the south.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 35
The White Tower, or citiidel, the most important edifice, occupies the central part of these ^jremises. It is one hun- dred and sixteen feet by ninety-six, and ninety-two in height, Avith walls fifteen feet in thickness. It was built in the latter part of the eleventh century, nearly eight hundred years ago, and is a specimen of Norman architecture. It is divided from base to summit into various compartments by walls seven feet in thickness. The smallest apartment is now occupied by what is termed Queen Elizabeth's armory. On one side of this room, formed in the wall, is a cell eight feet by ten, without light except at its entrance — formerly the prison of Sir Walter Raleigh, Eal stone, Fane and Culpepper. Above this apartment is St. John's Chapel, another specimen of Norman architecture. A chaplain was formerly engaged to perform service here for about twelve dollars per annum. The most spacious room on the upper floor, in tbrmer ages was used by the king as a council room, where their courts were held. It is said to have teen here that, when the coun- cil was assembled, the Duke of Gloucester demanded Lord Hastings' immediate execution. This chamber and the ban- queting room are used at the present time as depositories for small arms. Grreat artistical skill is displayed in the arrange- ment of some of these arms and their implements, in form of floors, aquatic plants appearing in streams of water, lumi- nous stars and the sun rising in splendor.
We were conducted to the Horse Armory, which is nearly one hundred and fifty feet in length by thirty-four in breadth, filled with objects of curiosity and historical interest. There were equestrian figures, others on foot, dressed in armor of diflerent periods embracing over two and a half centuries. It is curious to trace the development of the idea relating to armor and weapons, as exhibited in the multitude of those specimens. The conception in its perfect development, in regard to armor, was strikingly illustrated by a full suit on a life-sized ef^gy of Henry the VHI, mounted on a horse.
36 COREESPONDENCE OF
This suit of armor was made of plated metal artistically arranged in sections overlapping one another, and turning upon pivots so as to afford the body, head, neck and limbs free motion, without exposing any portion. It is ponderous, weighing, as nearly as I recollect, about one hundred and twenty pounds. This armor is elaborately worked— inlaid with gold and very beautiful. We were shown a rough suit he wore at the age of eighteen, which weighed ninety-two pounds.
The first specimens of armor manifested the idea as rather confused : leather cut in pieces in the form of fish scales and sewed on cloth or deer skins. The next stage of development appears in a specimen made of small rings of steel sewed on to the same material. Again, in the begin- ning of the thirteenth century, a higher point ot develop- ment was reached— armor was constructed of vast quantities of small rings intersecting one with another so as to form a connected garment. After this, another improvement was introduced— mixed chain and plate being worn on the arms and legs. And thus invention progressed to its full develop- ment as represented at the period of Henry the VIII.
We saw various specimens of weapons invented at dif- ferent periods, commencing with the cross-bow, the spear and battle axe, exhibiting step by step successive improve- ments represented in the matchlock, improved matchlock, flintlock, improved flintlock, percussion lock, improved per- cussion, double-barreled gun, improved double-barrel, revolv- ing cylinder, cylinder improved, until we have reached the most perfect weapon now known.
The twelve towers of this fortress were erected, princi- pally, in the early part of the thirteenth century ; some of them, however, were built about the close of the eleventh century. The strange scenes enacted in past ages, beneath these frowning battlements, form a dark and bloody page in English history. Observing the multitude of objects bearing
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 37
distinct marks of those terrible events, my mind was almost overpowered with sad and gloomy reflections. In these dark and loathsome dungeons, kings and queens, after liav- ing been divested of their crowns and robes of royalty, were forced to make their ignominious abode.
These walls bear traces of having echoed the sighs and groans of illustrious men while gasping for life beneath the bloody instruments of horrid torture, also of princes and nobles having been thrust into these dungeons and ended their lives by means shrouded in mystery ! Tradition speaks of secret passages, of torture rooms and hidden recesses within and underneath these walls where I stood. Many eminent personages left inscriptions upon their prison walls, which 3^et remain — sad mementoes of themselves and their sufferings, Queen Ann, having enjoyed a few years of pomp and splendor, basking in the smiles of Henry the Eighth, was forced to exchange queenly habiliments for the prison costume, in which she passed from this loathsome captivity to the executioner's block. Queen Elizabeth's favor- ite, the Earl of Essex, the pride of the English court, was immured within one of these towers previous to being be- headed upon the scaffold. The beautiful, amiable and ac- complished Lady Jane Grey was incarcerated here. '*Jane," engraved by Lord Dudley, her unfortunate husband, on the stone walls of his prison, which I saw, reminded me forcibly of the melancholy circumstance. Two princes, sons of Edward the Fourth, while suffering captivity in what is termed " the bloody tower," were secretly murdered, and afterwards their bodies found mouldering beneath its walls.
We were shown the executioner's axe, the heading block, thumb-screws, iron collars and other horrid instru- ments for human torture. We were conducted to a small enclosure, surrounded with iron pailings, where many illus- trious men and women of distinction and royalty had been privately executed.
38 COKEESrONDENCE OF
Omitting many objer^ts of interest, perceiving my letter becoming lengthy, I will close by noticing the "Regalia" as a strange contrast with what has been described. The *'Jewel House" is a building of modern construction, within the enclosure of these ramparts, and contains the " Crown Jewels." There is a magnificent display of crowns, diadems and sceptres embellished with pearls, rubies, emeralds, dia- monds and sapphires, together with Edward's staff of beaten gold, over four feet in length, added to which are the '^swords of justice," temporal and ecclesiastical, and the pointless *' sword of mercy."
LORENZO SNOW.
LETTER XV
A Week in London— Sight-seeing— Visiting— Attending Conference— Theatres —Crystal Palace— The Grand Aquarium— Tower of London — " Man's Inhumanity to Man" — Going to Rotterdam.
London, England, November 28th, 1872. Editoe Deseret News:
We have been in London one week. We have divided our tune among the various occupations of resting from our Yojage across the sea, sight-seeing, visiting the brethren, call- ing upon gentlemen who have visited Utah, attending Lon- don Conference with the Saints, and a concert got up b}^ them, studying to obtain information concerning the further pro- gress of our journey, attending theatres, etc.
Our several calls, without exception, have been pleasant and agreeable.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 39
On the 26th we spent th- day very pleasantly in the Crystal Palace, in company with Pn^sident Albert Carrington, Elders John B. Fairbanks, BrigUam Carrington, David O. Calder, Erastus W. Snow, Samuel S. Jones, Junius F. Wells, Elijah A. Box, James G. Bleak, George F. Gibbs, Charles H. Wilcken, Newell Clayton, John Neff, Anson Call, Mark Lindsey, David Cazier, John Bennion, missionaries from Utah, Brother Scofield of the Manchester Branch, Sister Mercy K. Thompson, President Lorenzo Snow, and his Sister Eliza R., Feramorz Little and his daughter Clara, Paul A. Schettler, Thomas W. Jennings, visiting and examining the curiosities that have been collected in this magnilicent structure. It would require weeks, perhaps months, to make even a par- tial examination of the specimens of nature and art that are here on exhibition, including statuary, paintings, numerous varieties of mar^hinery, clothing, furniture, rare plants — na- tive and exotic, representations of diflerent nations in their native surroundings, etc.
The Aquarium exhibited here, presents to the eye speci- mens of the mysteries of the deep. A considerable variety of fish, in all stages of existence, moving in their own ele- ment, carefully fed and nourished, is a recent addition of much interest. Most of the same party visited the "Tower of London," rife with gloomy historic reminiscences, and when we left we mutually felt like exclaiming with the poet, ^' Man's inhumanity to man."
We are making arrangements to leave England for Rot- terdam on the 30th.
Yours, etc
GEORGE A. SMITH.
40 COREESPONDENCE OP
LETTER XVI.
At Rotterdam— Programme of Travel— Antwerp— Brussels— Paris— Lyons- Marseilles — jSTice — Genoa— Turin — Milan— Venice— Bologna — Florence — Rome &c.
New Bath Hotel, Eotterdam, Holland,
December 5th, 1872.
George Q. Cannon, Esq., Salt Lake City,
Dear Brother: — My time is so completely occupied in attending to the business and traveling arrangements of our party, that it is impossible for me to send you further corres- pondence, but Brother Lorenzo Snow kindly volunteered to attend to it.
We are all well, enjoy ourselves very much, and in- tend to leave here for Antwerp to-morrow at 10.10 a. m. On the 8th int^t. we shall reach Brussels, and at Paris we intend to make a stay from the 11th to the 18th inst., at Lyons the 20th, Marseilles 24th, Nice 25th, Genoa 27th, Turin 29th, Milan Jan. 1st, 1873, Venice Jan. 3rd, Bologna Jan. 9th, Florence 10th, Rome ICth to 24th, Naples 26th to 30th, from Brindisi to Corfu Jan. 31st, Alexandria Feb. 7th, Cairo 23, Jafla 26th, Beyrout March 23rd, Constantinople March 31st, Athens April 5th, Trie&te April 19th. Should we stay six weeks in Palestine instead of four weeks, the last four dates will be two weeks later each.
Remember us kindly to Presidents Young and Wells, and to all inquiring friends.
Yours truly in the Gospel.
PAUL A. SCHETTLER.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 41
LETTER XVII
Amsterdam — The Hague — Haarlem — Description of Rotterdam — Jews, Catholics, Protestants— Canals— Church of St. Lawrence— Public Schools —Fighting Old Ocean — Windmills and Steam Engines — Calamity at Dort— The Hague Described— Mode of Keeping Back the Waters— The Museum— Masterpieces of Dutch Painters— " The House in the Wood" — An Evening -with the American Minister.
Amsterdam, Holland, December 5tli, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
We, President Smith and party, are now located at ^' Old Bible Hotel" in the city of Amsterdam. We reached Rotter- dam, Sunday, 1st December, having left London the previous evening. Tuesday we visited the Hague, Wednesday re- sumed our journey for this place, calling a few hours at Haarlem, and arrived here in the afternoon.
I now make a few extracts from my journal, beginning at Rotterdam. Our Hotel is pleasantly located— fronting a beautiful quay extending one and a half miles, bordering an extensive harbor, bearing on its placid bosom ships of the largest tonnage from the fo\ir quarters of the globe.
The city of Rotterdam is situated on the river Maas ; it is the second commercial city in Holland, numbering one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants, Jews, Catholics and Protestants. It is intersected by numerous canals of sufficient depth to accommodate large ships, Avhich discharge their valuable burdens into the very heart of the city, pro- ducing stir and life truly wonderful, which render the same very picturesque. A city filled with canals— floating ships
42 CORRESPONDENCE OF
in all directions— to strangars presents a romantic app:^ar- ance, exciting surprise and admiration. Tliese canals are crossed by numerous drawbridges. The city is remarkably clean and orderly, considering its immense commerce and business. We visited the church of "St. Lawrence," con- taining several splendid marble monuments of Dutch heroes, bearing old Dutch inscriptions, whi'^h I regret to say baffled our best linguists. It has a magnificent organ with three key boards, seventy-two stops, four thousand and sixty-two pipes, the largest being thirty-two feet long and seven- teen inches in diameter. This organ is supposed, by some, to equal if not surpass the famous instrument at Haarlem. The tower of this church is two hundred and eighty-eiglit feet in height ; its summit affords a fine view of Dut^h scenery —canals bordered with trees, country houses, straight aven- ues, broad arable fields, green pastures and meadows, form- ing a plane with no perceptible inclination ; also numerous windmills, in motion, in every direction.
Rotterdam has several public schools. We saw eleven hundred children belonging to one of them of from four to eleven years of age. We remarked that their countenances failed to exhibit those characteristics of health and long3vity observable in the children of our Utah schools.
The Hollanders possess indomitable energy and perseve- rance. By untiring industry, towns and cities have been built upon trembling morasses, lakes and seas rolled from their beds giving place to cultivated fields, green pastures and beautiful meadows. Portions of seas and lakes have been intersected and surrounded by dykes or embankments and the water pumped out by steam engines and windmills. This reclaimed land is intersected by canals and sects at suitable distances, taking advantage of every perceivable in- chnation, dead levels being the characteristic of the country, and yet the most formidable enemy a Dutchman has to com- bat. The main canals are continued through the country to
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 43
some river, inlet or the ocean. In every instance the surface waters from a lower plane are conducted, into canals running on a higher elevation, by windmills and steam engines, carry- ing an immense amount of surplus water, wliich is constantly gathering, especially in rainy seasons, out from these re- claimed districts. This process imposes a heavy tax on the wisdom and patience of the irrepressible Dutchman, initiat- ing him imperatively into the practice of the mysteries of hydraulics. In Utah, we labor to secure water for our lands; here, the removal of it, and the preservation of life and prop- erty from its overflow, is a national work, which involves an almost infinitely greater amount of toil and expense. The least neglect in their operations exposes the country to de- vastation. In the province of Dort, in the fifteenth century, seventy villages were overflowed and one hundred thousand inhabitants destroyed.
From Rotterdam we proceeded to the Hague, containing one hundred thousand inhabitants. It is the most elegant, beautiful and fashionable town in Holland. It possesses no internal resources or advantages of commerce, but to the presence of the Court, and of numerous nobles and diploma- tists, who make it their residence, it chiefly owes its aristo- cratic and prosperous appearance. Many of its streets are broad and handsome, bordered with beautiful trees ; its buildings lofty and substantial. A magnificent basin of water in the central part of the town, with an ornamental island and flocks of white, graceful swans, is the most fash- ionable locality.
The Hague and its environs are so flat that the waters in the canals are destitute of fall ; this difficulty, however, is overcome by artificial arrangement. A steam engine on the Duenny pumps fresh water into the canal, by which an im- perceptible current is formed, carrying a fiow towards Rot- terdam, where it is pumped into the river Maas.
The Museum attracted our attention. It contains a fine
44 ■ CORRESPONDENCE OF
collection of curiosities in the lower part of the building, and in the ui)per a picture gallery comprising specimens by the most celebrated Dutch painters. I was so delighted with the beauty and artistical display that I invested in an opera glass. Our attention was attracted to a painting by Rembrandt, representing a school of anatomy, possessing rare merit and beauty of design and execution. This wonderful picture was purchased for about thirteen thousand dollars, by King William the First. It represents Professor Tulp, surrounded by his anxious puj)ils, in the act of dissecting a corpse. The subjer't perhaps is not very agreeable, but all of the figures, the expression of their features, the death appearance of the corpse, the whole was brought out with such profound skill as to invest the painting with an irresistible charm.
Paul Potter's far-famed "bull," regarded as the gem of the whole collection, also rivetted our attention. The French carried it as a trophy to Paris and placed it among their pic- tures in the Louvre, and considered it worthy to rank as fourth in point of value. The Dutch government offered Napoleon twenty thousand dollars for its restoration. We were conducted through various departments appropriated to objects of curiosity of various descriptions. I will merely notice a model house constructed by order of Peter the Great with the intention of taking it to Russia to present to the Empress a view of the interior of a house in Amsterdam. This model is reported to have cost about twelve thousand dollars, and to have occupied twenty-five years in its comple- tion.
We visited the Queen's palace, called " The House in the Wood," very romantically situated in an extensive park. We were conducted through the principal apartments. The palace contains some excellent paintings, and magnificent silk tapestry of exquisite needle work done by Chinese and Japanese, representing birds of their country with their brill- iant plumage, etc. This tapestry, we were informed by our
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 4o
conductor, was presented to the Stadtholder, William the Fifth, by the Emperor of Japan.
After many expressions of admiration, and, by request, having inscribed our names in the Queen's register, we pro- ceeded to Scheveningen, a fashionable resort upon tlie sea coast, and enjoyed a splendid drive, passing through groves of majestic oak, elm and linden.
While at the Hague we called on Mr. Gorhani, the Amer- ican Minister, who received us very cordially and insisted on the whole party joining him at tea and spending the evening, which invitation was accepted by President Smith in behalf ot the party. Our interview in the evening with Mr. Gorham, and his wife, a very intelligent, affable and accomplished lady, was agreeable and entertaining, and will ever be asso- ciated with the pleasant recollections of our visit to the beau- tiful Hague.
LORENZO SNOW.
46 CORRESPONDENCE OF
LETTER XVIII.
Sight-seeing in Liverpool — Arrival in London — Albert Memorial — Houses of Parliament— Westminster Abbey — Nelson Monument — Crystal Palace — Theatres— Rotterdam — Table d'Hote— Visit to a Moravian Settlement — The Hague— The Japanese Museum— Visit to the American Minister — Haarlem— The Cathedral and Grand Organ, Imitation Thunder Storm — Meeting with Saints — Amsterdam — Its Museum — The King's Palace — Visit the Navy Yard— Leave for Rotterdam— Cross the Maas— Enter Belgium — Catholic Marriage Ceremony — Programme of Travel.
Hotel de l'Europe, Antwerp, Belgium,
December 6th, 1872.
Editors Salt Lake Herald:
You will certainly think that my letters are few and far between, but I have been so much engaged with our travel- ling arrangements, that I really could not find time to write ere this.
We arrived in good health and spirits at Liverpool; spent two days there in looking around the city and preparing ourselves for our further journey ; left for London, Nov. 21st, at 9.15 a. m., and arrived at Euston Station at 2.30 p. m. We put up at Mr. Thomas Cook's boarding house, No. 59 Great Russel Street, opposite the British Museum, where we were comfortably quartered. During our nine days stay in London we visited the Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Traftilgar Square with the Nelson Column, The Union Bank, Sydenham Crystal Palace, Dr. Anger's College in Regent Park, and Dr. Jabez Burns and his Baptist Chapel. President George A. Smith
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 47
and myself also called at Mr. Hep worth Dixon's, but we did not find him at home. Of the principal theatres we visited Covent Gardens, Drury Lane and Princess'. On the day which we spent at Sydenliam Palace we were accompanied by President Albert Carrrington and about a dozen Elders, some from the Liverpool office and otliers who had come to see us. Saturday, the 30th, at 9.55 p. m., we left per train for Harwich, where we arrived at 12.30 a. m. on December 1st. We wi;nt on board the steamer Richard Young^ left Harwich at 2.30 a. m., and arrived after rather a rough pas- sage at Rotterdam at 2.30 p. m., put up at the New Bath Hotel, onder de hoompjes, as the Dutch call it, and enjoyed the first table d''hote after the European plan, having from eight to ten different dishes served at intervals of about ten minutes. This gives to almost ever^'^ epicure a chance to find something that will tickle his palate, and we all much preferred it to the American " bolting " system. Six of our party skipped at Rot- terdam to see the sights, and to witness the enormous amount of business which is transacted here every day in receiving and shipping merchandise from and to all parts of the world. The greatest vessels can go right in front of the warehouses in the heart of the city. Holland imports most of the pro- ductions of its possessions in raw material, and after manu- facturing them ships the surplus to other countries.
President George A. Smith and myself left Rotterdam the same evening at 6.40 for Zeist, a Moravian settlement near Utrecht, where some of my relatives reside. We reached there at 9 p. m., and after providing for the comforts of Pres- ident Smith at the hotel of the place, I went to see one of my uncles, Mr. E. C. Martin, who with his wife received me in the most cordial manner. Next morning President Smith and myself were shown through Mr. Martin's extensive factory of white china, heating stoves and house ornaments of burnt clay. We then visited the " house of the bretliren, " where the unmarried men of the Moravian Church live, and
48 CORRESPONDENCE OF
went tlirongh a number of tlieir stores, where tliey sell all kinds of merchandise, partly of their own manufacture, each diff 'rent kind of goods in a separate room, M^Licli is unlocked for each visiting party, and locked again as soon as they leave that room. The outside door of the building is also locked, and if a person wishes to make purchases he has to ring the bell to be admitted. We then visited some of my old friends, and one of them, Mr. Muller, though being sick, had us immediately ushered into his room, and introduced us to his family. This gave President Smith an opportunity to see these peoj)le in their own houses, and learn more of their habits than he could have done otherwise. We also visited another uncle of mine, Mr. Adolphus Menzel, who received us very cordially ; and he speaking English toler- ably well. President Smith had about an hour's conversation with him. His oldest daughter, Emilia, about eighteen years old, is quite an intelligent girl, speaking English, French, German, and Dutch, and playing the piano very well. Mrs. Martin took us in the afternoon in a carriage to Utrecht, and we passed many fine country seats, farmhouses, meadows, etc.; she was only sorry that we could not stay longer, but she and my uncle were exceedingly pleased with the visit of President Smith, and I know that this visit will have good results. We thence took rail to Rotterdam, and after visiting the fine old Cathedral, met our friends again, all well and enjoying themselves.
Next morning, December 8rd, we took train for the Hague, the residence of the King of Holland, and visited the Japanese Museum, and the Picture Gallery, with the cele- brated paintings, '^ The Bull," by Paul Potter, and "Anatom- ical Lessons," by Eembrandt. Then we called upon the American Minister, Mr. Charles T. Gorham, Bellevue Hotel, wlio received us very kindly, and invited all of us to take tea with him at 8 p. m., which we. did, and spent a very pleasant evening with him and his lady. In the afternoon
PALESTINE T O U E I S T S . 49
we also visited the celebrated " House in thj Woods " — Dutch " t'huis ten bosh" — the residence of the Queen of Holland, where we saw some very tine paintings by Rulens and his scholars, and other objects of art. From there we drove to the lishing village of Scheveningen, the Urand Bazar, and back to our hotel. Next morning we departed for Amster- dam, and stopped two hours at Haarlem, where we visited the Cathedral which contains the large organ, that has 5,000 m3tal and 2,030 woaden pipv^s and sixty stops. VVe had it played for an hour. Among other pieces, the organist treated us with the imitation of a thunderstorm, which, as the Dutch say, is played so effectively that the milk in all the neighborhood turns sour. At 1.10 p. m. we arrived at Am- sterdam, the capital of Holland, wliere we met Elder S. Van Dyke, who now labors in this mission, and hj informed us that he had made arrangements for a meeting with some ten or twelve Saints at 10 p. m., as several had to work till nearly that hour. President George A. Smith, and Brothers Little, Dunford and myself attended, and we had a good little meeting at Elder W. T. De Groot's house, an excellent spirit prevail- ing. We all spoke a short time, and I translated for the other brethren. President Smitli blessed and reconfirmed the native priesthood, and we administered to some of the sisters who were afflicted. The rest of our party did not go with us, because they suffered from severe colds, but Sister Eliza R. Snow called to see some of them the next forenoon, which gave them muc;h satisfaction. Immediately after our arrival in Amsterdam we visited the Museum and thi palace of the King, on tlie square called " the Dam." The celebrated Ex- change Buildings are also situated on the same square. On th3 morning of the 5th we drove through the city and visited the navy yards, called the "Marine," where we saw some powerful machinery used for the building of monitors ; shears that cut iron plates of half an inch thickness as if they were
50 CORRESPONDENCE OF
sheets of paper ; and punches that went through inch plates of iron as if they were nothing but pasteboard.
At 2.80 p. m. we left for Rotterdam by a shorter route, and arrived at 4 p. m. Friday, the 6th, at 10 a. m., we crossed the river Maas, on the other side of which we took train for Antwerp, which we reached afc 1. 10 p. m. At the station where we entered into Belgium we had our luggage examined. Soon after our arrival we visited the Cathedral, which contains many of Rubens' celebrated paintings, and also the vault in which he and his two wives are buried. In going from there to the Church of St. James we passed through the Exchange, which is a very handsome building.
Brussels, Belgium, December 8th, 1872.
At 1.18 p. m. we departed for Brussels, where we arrived after one hour's ride, and called upon the American Minister, Mr. J. Russell Jones, but he had not yet returned from the United States, and was not expected before Christmas.
In the evening we took a stroll through some of the finest streets of the city and visited some large bazars and arcades, where merchants keep their goods displaj^ed under brilliant gas-light to the best possible advantage. This morning we visited a Catholic church and witnessed the ceremonies, which were highly interesting to some of our party who had never seen them.
Our programme is: To visit the battle field of Waterloo to-morrow; leave for Paris on the 11th ; stay at Paris till the morning of the 19th; at Lyons from the 20th to 22nd; at Marseilles from 23rd to 24th; reach Nice the 25th; Genoa 26th; Turin 29th; Milan January 1, 1873; Venice from 3rd to 8th; Bologna 9th ; Florence 10th to 13th ; Pisa 15th ; Rome 16th to 25th ; Naples 26th to 30th; Brindisi 31st of January, and leave same evening per steamer for Corfu ; arrive at Alexandria February 7th; Cairo Feb. 23rd; arrive at Jaflfe,
PALESTINE TOLTRISTS. 51
February 26th, where we commence our Palestine tour on horseback till we reach Bejrout, March 23rd. Thence we go per Austrian Lloj^d steamer to Constantinople, to reach tliere March 81st, Athens April oth, and back to Trieste, April 10th, 1873. Should we, however, prolong our Palestine tour from thirty to forty-two days, the last four dates will be two weeks later each, because steamers leave Beyrout every two weeks on Monday. We are all eiijojdng good health. I intend to write you again before leaving Paris, if '.ime permits.
PAUL A. SCHETTLEE.
LETTER XIX
Sea-sickness — Rotterdam — Among the Moravians — The Canai System — The Utrecht Cathedral— Beautiful Trees— Struggle for Mastery between Land and Sea— The Hague — "House in the Wood"— Evening withMr.Gorham and Lady — Haarlem — A Shot by the Spaniards — "Bible Hotel" — King's Palace — Navy Yard — Building Iron-clad Monitors — The Cemetery — Meeting with Saints— Baptisms — Enter Belgium — Antwerp Cathedral — Paintings and Tomb of Rubens.
Antwerp, Belgium, December 6th, 1872. President Brigham Young:
Most of our party suffered discomfort from sea-sickness in crossing the German Ocean. I was sick about eight hours. I lay on a lounge about two-thirds as broad as I am. I turned over occasionally to keep my balance. As soon as our party were fairly settled at the Bath Hotel at Rotterdam, I started with Elder Paul A. Schettler to visit his relatives at Zeist. They belong to a settlement of Moravians, a sect of Christians who came to Holland from Germany in 1745, in
52 CORRESPONDENCE OF
order to obtain religious libeity. They purchased su:ficierit land from the "Lord of Zeist" to build their houses and church and a place for burying their dead.
The tine brick meeting house, ere-t-d in 1745, is still sufficiently large, which indicates that th 'ir numbers are not increasing.
Although they cam ' from Germany, they have lived in Holland until they are thoroughly Dutch. Their houses and grounds are very neat and clean. Th y have canals leading from the main canal of the kingdom to all their business houses. This is the case throughout Holland, canals answer- ing the place of roads in other countries.
Brother Schettler's relatives and friends were ver}^ glad to see him, and treated him with marked kindness and respect ; seemed glad that I accompanied him. One of his uncles and one cousin spoke a little English, which was very gratifying to them and esp'ciall}^ so to me. One of his aunts, a very intelligent lady, who has six children and one grand- child, seemed verj^ anxious to talk. She took her carriage and carried us several miles to see the Cathedral at Utrecht. Her husband showed me through his extensive establisliment for manufacturing porcelain stoves, and ornaments of burnt clay. I regarded ra}' going with Brother Schettler as a fortu- nate circumstance, as it gave m > an opportunity' of becoming acquainted with som .> of the people of Holland at their own firesides. I was surprised at the nu:iiber of beautiful trees which are growing in rows by the sides of the canals, and in small groves. Most of them are very beautiful. I recog- nized the bass wo jd and the beech, although the bark looks greener than in the American woods.
Most all of the land app 'ars to be but a few inches above the sea, and a good miuy thousand acres are lower than the sea, and are only drained by pumps run by windmills, which raise the water 'o higher levels, and run it off to the sea, it is then kept out by immense embankments. This
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 53
would seem rather precarious— living lower tlian the Go iman Ocean— when we consider that only a few hundred years ago half a million people were drowned by the ovei-flow. Much of the country then overflowed has not yet been reclaimed. On the 4th inst. we visited the Hague, the rnpital of Hol- land, examined its museum, and enjoyed a drive to the Queen's Palace, known as the " House in the Wood." We then drove to the sea i^hore, and on our return shopped at the Bazar. In the evening all called on the American Minister, Honorable Charles T. Gorham, who invited us to spend the evening and take tea. We accepted the invitation, and were introduced to Mrs. Gorham, a very pleasant and agreeable lady. We next went to the Cathedral at Haarlem, an im- mense pile. By paying thirteen florins we were privileged to hear the mammoth organ for an hour. It is truly a won- derful instrument, containing 5,000 metal pipes, and it is said 2,000 more of wood. We saw, embedded in the wall, a cannon shot fired by the Spaniards in 1572. It is lodged near the pulpit, and was intended to kill the minister. We passed through Ley den. rendered famous in history by the vigorous siege by the Spaniards, during the revolutionary war of 1673-4, a contest between Catholicism and Protestantism, as well as between Dutch independence and Spanish tyranny. At Amsterdam we stopped at the Bible Hotel, and we visited a mu-eum famous for its old paintings. We also visited the King's Palace, and spent about two hours in the navy yard, examinnig the immense machine shops and <.)ther places in which the building of iron vessels of war is carried on. We saw one new monitor afloat, so arranged that they conld sink the upper deck two feet under water, all but the turret. We also saw slabs of iron plating eight inches through, one of which had several holes shot through, the ball first pene- trating twelve inches of hard wood, showing that they cannot make plates that cannon balls cannot penetrate. Went through the marine arsenal, which contains a great variety of
64 C O E R E S P O N 1) ]^: N C E OF
arms of various periods, many of wliicli are now used in the Dutnli navy. We drove to the cemetery. The monuments are stone slabs, polished until they are as smooth as glass ; they are laid flat on the ground.
Elder Van Dyke, of Ogden city, called to see us, and Elders Little, Dunford, Schettler and myself went with him to the home of Brother De Groot, and met with a branch of the church, all of us speaking to them in turn, Brother Schett- ler interprethig. Brother Van Dyke has baptized twenty- seven since lie came to Holland. He accompanied us to Rot- terdam and stayed with us over night. We regard him as a faithful missionary laboring under difficulties.
To-day we left the dominions of his DutoU Majesty, Wil- tiam II, and entered those of Leopold II, King of the Bel- gians. We had to stop and have our trunks and satchels ex- amined, to see if we had anything on which we should pay duty, but on the whole we regarded th > oficers of our new king as rather courteous than otherwise, in the discliarge of a Rot very pleasant duty. We are now at the Hotel de I'Eu- rope. We have visited the great Cathedral of Antwerp, re- markable for containing several original paintings by the im- mortal artist Rubens. We saw a man hy the name of Van den Wildenberch, who has spent thirty-eight years of his life in making copies of Rumens' two master-pieces, one of the crucifixion of the Saviour, the other, taking liim from the eross. Van den Wildenb'^rch sells these at 300f. a piece. Rubens is almost the idol of Antwerp. His statues and pic- tures are everywhere to be seen. We went to the Chuivh of St. Jacqu':'S,- where we saw his magnificent tomb, above which hangs ou'^ of Ids own paintings — a portrait of himself, his two wives, one daughter, one son, and other members of his family.
Our onl}^ anno3'ance in regard to health is colds. The climate is damp naturally and the whole country is but a few inches out of water.
GEORGE A. SMITH.
I'ALESTINE TOURISTS. 56
LETTER XX.
At Haarlem— Its Former Struggle with Spain— Two thousand People Exe- cuted—Church of St. BaYon and its Wonderful Organ— A Dutch Wedding —The Inventor of the Art of Printing— Amsterdam— A City on Piles Built on a Saltmarsh— Amsterdam Sapped and Mined by a Formidable Army of Worms— Canals— A City Containing One Hundred Islands and Two Hundred and Eighty Bridges— The Museum— A Palace on Piles— The Covmcil Chamber — Clipping Iron Plates — Diamond Cutting— Charit- able Institutions.
Antweep, Belgium, December 7tli, 1872. Editor Deseket News:
We arrived at Haarlem en route to Amsterdam, on Wednesday tlie 4tli of December. It is a town of considera- ble importance, containing thirty thousand inhabitants — in former periods the residence of the Counts of Holland. In the latter part of the sixteenth century, during the Spanish war, the citizens of Haarlem, after suffering seven months' siege, in which thej^ endured the severest hardships, were forced to capitulate. Ten thousand people on that occasion perished by famine or lost their lives in the terrible encoun- ters of those blood}^ struggles. The commandant and the Protestant clergy, together with two thousand townspeople, were barbarously executed after having surrendered. Fred- erick of Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, commanded the besiegers, and had given solemn assurances of life and hon- orable treatment. We saw traces of a striking character, still remaining as sad mementoes of the atrocious deeds.
St. Bavon, erected about three hundred and seventy
56 CORRESPOXDEXCE OF
years ago, is the principal church in Haarlem. This is a magnificent strncturp, fonr l/undred and twenty -five feet in length ; its nave is supported by twenty-eight massive col- umns, eighteen feet in circninferonce. This church is re- nowned for its famous organ, which, for a long time, has been considered the largest and most powerful in the world. It has four key boards, sixtj^-four stops, five thousand metal and two thousand wooden pipes; the la-gest of these pipes is thirty-two feet long, and fifteen inches in diameter. It is very beautiful — adorned with marble statuary, life size, and. in attractive attitudes, representing personages playing on instru- ments of various descriptions. We employed, the organist and three or four blowers to exhibit its merits. Imitations of different tones of the piano-forte, the trumpet, whistle, battle call, sacred music, closing with a tremendous thunder storm — all were executed with admirable accuracy, fully satisfying us as to its wonderful capabilities.
We saw a cannon ball which was nearly buried in the wall, having be^n thrown through an opposite window from a Spanish gun during the siege above mentioned.
While exploring this church for objects of curiosity, we were Interrupted by the approach of a wedding party, which afforded some diversion, especially to our* young t- urists, who had never witnes-ed a Dutch wedding. The bride and groom were accompanied by a grave clerical gentleman, to whom we bowed with becoming reverence, and with smiles of our heartj" approval to the happy groom and blushing bride. As we discovered nothing in the ceremonies surpris- ingly characteristic, I omit description.
In front of this church is a bronze statue of Coster, form- erly a citizen of Haarlem, representing him as the inventor of the art of printing.
Having spent two hours in that intorestin-r town, w^e took cars for Amsterdam, where we arrived about half past 3 p. m. Amsterdam is the great commercial city of Holland,
PALESTINE TOURISTS
57
nnmbering 275,000 inliabitants, of wliom 57,000 are Roman Catholics, and 28,000 Jews. It is built over a e^alt marsh, npon piles driven from forty to lift}' feet into the ground. We were informed that one liouse only, in this city, s-tands on any other foundation. These people apparently feel as secure upon these wooden posts as if founded on solid ground, although at one period this faith in their safety was fearfully shaken. While busied in making canals and windmills — smoking their pipes, unsuspicious of danger, the enemy in vast numbers had succeeded in securing a lodgment beneath the city and commenced mining and sapping the entire sub- structure—penetrating and cutting into the very heart of these underpinnings. These fearful invaders were wood worms/ They were honey -combing the wooden piles with alarming rapidity, threatening to tumble all Amsterdam into the great salt marsh. The whole city was in consternation ! Every Dutchman's ingenuity and military tactics were called into requisition to devise measures to rout the enemy. Some of the crusaders were captured while working the trenches, and submitted to the inspection of zoologists, in hopes of discovering some vulnerable point, susceptible of attack, but all to no purpose — still they were mining and sapping, bor- ing and eating, and, by millions, doubling and quadrupling. At last, however, these belligerents ended their hostilities after the same fashion as Bonaparte's army in Russia— the Holland winter finished them. It appears that these insects had been imported by some vessel from a waiTQ climate— the colder regions of the north compelling them to succumb and leave the honest Dutchman to smoke his meerscl aum in peace and security. Living specimens of these insects are preserved in the Cabinet of Zoologists in Amsterdam, where they may be seen by the tourist.
The expense of these foundations for building frequently exceeds tliat of their superstructures. The neglect of proper attention to this matter is liable to result in disaster. An < x-
58 COREESPONDENCE OF
tensive warehouse, containing 3,500 tons of grain, was pre- cipitated into the marsli in consequence of the inefficiency of the foundation.
The city is about nine miles in circumference — intersected by numerous canals, dividing it into nearly one hundred islands, which circumstance, in connexion with other re- semblances has given it the title of the " Venice of the North." Many of these canals are very broad— flanked with avenues of tall elms, presenting a handsome and picturesque appear- ance, comj)aring favorably witli the finest streets in any city we have visited. Two hundred and eighty bridges form the crossings of these canals. A reservoir about thirteen miles distant ^supplies^the^inhabitants with drinking-water, which is conveyed in pipes.
We visited the Museum, which contains many valuable paintings, chiefly the works of the old Dutch school. The finest edifice in Amsterdam is the " King's Palace," which rests on a foundation of thirteen thousand six hundred and fifty-nine piles; its length is two hundred and eighty-two feet— two hundred and thirty-five in width, and one hundred and sixteen feet high. Its tower is sixty-six feet high, con- taining a splendid set of cliimes. The interior of the palace is' grand and beautiful— its principal apartments, through which we passed, are constructed of white marble, and many sumptuously decorated. The "Council Chamber" is one hundred and twenty feet long by sixty broad over the en- trance, and opposite to it we noticed flags and trophies wrest- ed from the Spaniards and other enemies. We also visited the Navy Yard, and were conducted through the different departments of ship-building. Steamers, monitors and iron- clads were in course of erection. We were amused in view- ing the operation of their ponderous and complicated machinery. By a downward stroke chunks over three inches in diameter were punched out of cold iron plate above an inch in thickness. Ponderous iron pillars were pared, pol-
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 59
ished and grooved, blocks of iron eiglit inclies thick were turned and twisted into every desirable shape. It seemed impossible that any projectile could be forced through an eisht-inch block of iron : we were, however, shown one of this description which had been perforated bj' a cannon ball after having passed through a covering of oak at least one foot in thickness.
The most remarkable trade in this city is that of diamond cutting, which is done almost exclusively^ by Jews, The stones are cut or sawed through by means of wires covered with diamond dust and polished by being pressed by the workmen against a rapidly revolving iron disk, moistened with a mixture of oil and diamond dust. This last material has proved to be indispensable in this work, as no otlier sub- stance will make impressions on the diamond.
Amsterdam is celebrated for its numerous charitable in- stitutions. It has upwards of forty designed for the benefit of the sick, aged and indigent, lunatics, foundlings and widows, all being supported by voluntarj' contributions. Up- wards of twenty thousand poor are sustained at the expense of private individuals. We saw a number of establish- ments for the poor, which appeared more like palaces for the ricli than dwellings for the destitute. This cit}^ as well as many others in Holland, is famous in its liberal arrangements for educating the poorer classes. The " Society for Public Welfare," founded in 1784, by a Baptist minister, is an ad- mirable institution, having for its object the education and moral culture of th? lower classes, and extending its opera- tions throughout the kingdom of Holland. It comprises 14,000 members who subscribe two dollars annually. It educates teachers, publishes schoolbooks, establishes Sunday schools, reading-rooms, and libraries, publishes works of literature, bestows rewards, and confers public distinctions on persons who have made themselves conspicuous b}^ their generosity and philanthro2jic conduct.
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We left Amsterdam, Thursday the 6th, at 2 p. m., re- turned to Rotterdam, whifh we left on the following morn- ing, and at 1 p. m. arriv(^d at this place.
LORENZO SNOW.
LETTER XXI
Journey to Xew York— Crossing the Atlantic— London— The Gorman Ocean —Rotterdam— Hovise and Statue of Erasmus— Queen's Palace— The Old Bible Hotel— Shipbuilding—A Dutch Burial Ground— Antwerp— The Ca- thedral—Cliurch of St. Jacques— Tomb of Rubens— Field of Waterloo.
Beussels, Belgium, December 9tli, 1872, Miss Mary E. Cook:
Dear Lady -.—Six weeks and two days have elapsed since I left the ' • City of the Saints." In that time I have jonrneyed to New York— crossed he Atlantic— spent two days in Liverpool —thence to London— stopp >d nine days in that mammoth city of world-wide interest, and withal, so unsystematically plan- ned, that when asked how I liked London, I invariably re- plied, that, were I to shape it to my liking, I should, in the first place, take it to pieces and straighten out its streets. It is impossible to describe tb^n— in curves, semicircles, diago- nals and a few in straight lines, but most of these are so abruptly intersected, that when you turn your eyes to look, in the distance, the focus of si^ht is brought to a sr.dden standstill. But with all these discrepancies— its fogs and darkness, London is a grand metropolis, where, after you have seen very much, you realize that, comparatively, you have seen but little. So I felt when, leaving on the evening
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 61
of November 30th, we — President Smith and party — took cabs atour hotel, ''Cook's Boarding Hou'se," opposite the British Museum — then the raih-oad train to Harwich, where we took steamer and crossed the German Ocean — arrived in Rotterdam in the afternoon of December 1st— after dining on board and having our effects very politely examined by the custom house officer in the service of King William, while anchored in the Maas.
Rotterdam is a beautiful city — one of many and large industries. It is alive with business— full of canals, the smaller ones used for individual purposes, instead of teams and wagons, the larger ones for expensive commerce. In every part of the city, ships are either anchored or afloat, giv- ing the whole town the appearance of a navy j^ard. I was very much intire^ted liere by the way of " sight seeing" — was shown the house once the dwelling of the celebrated Erasmus, also a bronze statue of him, in standing position, on an elevated pedestal, in a mucli frequented portion of the city.
On the evening of the 3rd we went to the Hague — visited the Qaajn's Palace, entitled th- "House of the Woode," situated one and a half miles from the town, in a beautiful park — the drive to it is through ranges of stately forest trees. We were shown through the lovely dwellings, and invited to inscribe our names in the Queen's register. Much to our re- gret her Majesty happened to be in town at the time. From the Hague we went to Amsterdam, stopping by the way at Haarlem — saw and heard the world-renowned organ in the "Old Church of Bavon." I much admired its tones, especially when it most magnificently imitated a thunder- storm. In its tower I obtained a fine view of the town and its surroundings. In Amsterdam we quartered at the *' Old Bible Hot'^1," where a large Bible is stationed in an open position directly above the public entrance. This city, though much larger, exhibits in some respects the same chiiracteris-
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tics as those of Rotterdam and the Hague, only more so, that is, so far as shipping is concerned. Ships are made here. In company with President George A. Smitli and party I went all through a monstrously hirge establishment of this kind in the " Dutch Marine " or Navy Yard of Amsterdam, where a new iron monitor was just launched, and where we saw the ponderous machinery at work with which the manufacture is accomplished. It was surprising to see sheets of solid iron, several inches in thickness, cut like cheese. We visit- ed the King's Palace, which has a ball-room said to be the best in Europe — it is one] hundred feet high, one hundred and twenty long and sixty in breadth. The cemetery is very neat — instead of raised or erect stones, the graves are cover- ed with beautifully polished granite slabs laid prostrate — some of them very expensively and elaborately ornamented. From Amsterdam we went to Antwerp, where we sub- mitted our trunks and valises to the respectful examina- tion of King Leopold's officers of customs ; visited the great Cathedral of Antwerp — examined some of Rubens' celebrat- ed paintings— one in particular, which is considered his master-piece, entitled "The Descent from the Cross." We also visited the " Church of St. Jacques," which contains the tomb of Rubens, over which is a painting, by himself, into which he has introduced a representation of himself, his two wives, his father and his son. From Antwerp we came to Brussels, where we arrived on the 7th. To-morrow we anticipate an omnibus ride to the field of the "Battle of Waterloo," and the next day we go to Paris.
With the exception of a little sea- sickness, and a cold taken on emerging from my steam-boat recess across the ocean, my health has been excellent, and, thus far, I have enjoyed the tour much beyond my expectations. What- ever I enjoy as a tourist, and whatever good I may ac- complish, is attributable to the financiering and philanthropy of my beloved sisters, the noble ladies of Utah. This,
PALESTINE T O L" R I S T S . 63
wherever lain, is present with me. I wish to be remembered to them all in love, with a double portion to those dear young ladies who are honoring that most important position, the " Young Ladies' Retrenchment Organization." They are often in ray thoughts, with my heart's earnest response — God bless them! Clara S. Little is a good, companionable girl, and I am very much at home with our party.
ELIZA Pt. SNOW.
LETTER XXII.
In Brussels— A Tour in Holland — Its Geographical Divisions — Xaval and Mercantile Marine — Colonies — The Executive— The Legislature— Modes of Travel — Brick Roads — Canals — Annual Expense of Dykes — Lofty Buildings — Cleanliness — Mirrors in the Streets — Church Chimes — A Singular Custom — Births and Marriages — Dutch Country Houses — Gigan- tic Windmills — "Polders," how Produced — Public Schools.
Brussels, Belgium, December 9th, 1872. Editor Ogden Junction:
I am now in Belgium, after having made a brief and interesting tour tlirough the principal cities of the kingdom of Holland. Some observations upon the general features of that remarkable country and its inhabitants, which I ex- tract from my journal, I trust will not be uninteresting.
The kingdom of Holland is divided into nine provinces, embracing a population of three millions and a half, one third Roman Catholics and one hundred thousand Jews. On an average, each square mile is occupied by two hundred and seventy-seven inhabitants. The total area of their possessions
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in thj East and West Indies amounts ta six hundred and sixty thousand square miles, with a popjlat'on of ei<,dit3en millions. The merchant licet of Holland numbers above seven thousand vessels ; two thousand hve hundred of these carry on a traffic with distant parts of the world. Its army consists of sixty-one thousand men, besides thirty thousand which are distributed throughout the colonies. The Royal Navy consists of one hundred and ninety-two vessels of war of diHerent descriptions.
Tlie executive power consists of a State Council of twenty mjmbers, twelve of whom ard nominated by the Kin^. The legislative power comprises two chambers : the first consists of thirty-nine members elected by the provinces for a term of nine years, the second, of seventy-four members elected by the ele3tori of the districts.
Their modes of travel by steamboats, railways and dili- gences, with respect to celerity, price and comfort, compare favorably with those of othjr countries. The roads in Hol- land are worthy of commendation. As stone does not abound in the country, small, well hardened bricks, one and a fourth inch thick, are employed as a substitute, forming an extremely hird surface, which is supposed to equal, if not to ex^el in l)oint of excellence, that of our best macadamized. The first cost of thj construction of these Dutch roads is estimated at about two thousand five hundred dollars per mile. They are ])nt little travelled however, except by light vehicles, the main trafiic being done upon their num-rous canals, which intersect the country in every direction, enlivened with mul- titudes of barges, oftim drawn by small screw steamers.
The roads or streets flanking the canals are planted with trees, relieving in part the monotonous characteristic flatness of the country, and imparting to the landscape a beautiful and picturesque appearance. These canals serve, not only as means of communication between their towns and cities, but also to carry off from their arable lands, surplus water,
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 65
and likewise answer in the place of hedges and walls, to enclose fields and gardens. The large canals, which are immsdiately connected with the sea, are closed at the point where they emp'y by massive floodgates, to prevent the encroachment of the sea when its level is lower than the water in the canals. The principal canals are sixty feet in width and sixty feet in depth. The great Northern Canal, connecting Amsterdam with the North Sea, is the broadest and deepest in Europe. This, however, will be surpassed by the one now in course of construction, connecting these two points by a shorter route, seventeen miles in length, and one hundred and ninety to three hundred and twenty feet in breadth, and twenty-three feet in depth.
I presume that Holland is the lowest country in the world, at least, the lowest of any in which T have travelled the greater portion lying several feet below the sea level ; much, therefore, of the security of the country depends upon dykes, or embankments. These dykes are not only required to prevent incursions of the sea, but rivers likewise, in con- sequence of the gradual and constant raising of their beds by alluvial deposits. Hence, one can scarcely imagine the enormous expense connected with these undertakings. The first principle to be observed in constructing a dyke is to make a massive and permanent foundation — it must be stamped and compressed to give it the necessary solidity ; as much of this banking material is of such a soft, soapy, oozy nature, it requires immense patience and labor to consolidate it sufficiently.
A vast embankment was thrown up from the slimy beds in the vicinity of Amsterdam, which required forty years to settle it to a state of firm solidity. In the construction of these dykes, twigs of willows are used, interlaced one with another with elaborate skill, the interstices being filled with clay, in order to bind the whole in one solid mass. These are renewed, -usually, every three years, being cultivated very
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extensively in all parts of tlie country for this purpose. The estimated annual expense of keeping these dykes in repair throughout Holland, is about two and a half millions of dollars.
Much difficulty is often experienced in forming perma- nent foundations for buildings. I noticed in the cities many structures of massive proportions, beautiful and magnificent, but sadly out of perpendicular, owing to imperfections of their substructures. The houses generally are lofty— built of small, red brick, the windows of imposing dimensions, and kept scrupulously clean, cleanliness being an admirable Dutch characteristic. Looking glasses are so arranged upon the outside of the windows that one can sit upon his or her cushioned chair, inside, and observe whatever is passing in the street without being seen. Some might object to this Dutch invention as a little too much one-sided amuse- ment.
The chimes in the towers of the churches and other public buildings indicate the quarters of the hour by playing bars of some popular or operatic air, which highly amused us until its frequent repetition moderated the pleasure.
In some of the Dutch cities a singular custom prevails, viz. — fixing bulletins on tlieir door-knockers where persons are sick, apprising their friends of their health, thus saving the trouble of knocking or ringing. The birth of a child is announced by a placard adorned with red silk and lace. The friends of the family on these interesting occasions are treated to wine and cinnamon cakes. Betrothals are cele- brated by an immense consumption of " bridal sngar," or sweet cakes aud spiced wine, called "bridal tears," very appropriate and amusing terms.
In passing through Holland, we frequently noticed beau- tiful villas and romantic country seats in the midst of parks and pleasure grounds occupied by Dutch gentry and mer- chants. Many of their dwellings bear inscriptions indicating
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the sentiments of the occupant, such as Wei Tevrede7i (Well Content) ; 3Iy7i Ge7icegen, (My Satisfaction) ; Vriends chap en Oezellscliap, (Frienship and Sociability) ; Buiten Zorg^ (Without care). Many have much more lengthy titles.
Holland is full of windmills, some of which are of gigantic size, their sails often spreading one hundred feet in length. They are used for grinding corn, cutting tobacco, sawing timber, manufacturing paper and in transferring sur- plus water from low grounds into canals running upon higher elevations, which discharge it into the sea.
A great portion of the country has been reclaimed from rivers,morasses, lakes and seas ; these '* polders," or reclaimed lands are remarkably fertile, owing to varipus causes. In many instances during the winter season they are covered with water, thereby receiving additional vitality ; the surplus water can be removed on the shortest notice. They afford an admirable and efficient system of irrigation. There are some remarkable features in the manner in which they produce these '' polders." The first step in the process consists in surrounding the morass, or portion of the lake to be drained, with a dyke sufficient to prevent the admission of water from without. Then the water is removed by means of water wheels, constructed for the purpose, driven by windmills or steam engines. In some instances these lakes or morasses, to be reclaimed, are too low or deep to admit the water being at once transferred to the main canals, and conveyed off*. In such cases a system of dykes, or embankments, one within another, each provided with a canal on its exterior, constitu- ting an ascending series of levels, from the lower of which water is transferred to the higher, and finally into the main channel, whence it is carried into the ocean.
Holland is celebrated for its numerous private and public schools, and excellent arrangements for the general diffusion of knowledge among the lower classes.
We saw some of their schools, but our time was too
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limited to investigate their educational system as would have been desirable.
Holland is also proverbial for her numerous charitable institutions.
LORENZO SNOW,
LETTER XXIII
Brussels— Hard-worked Women— Feeding Horses with Coarse Bread— Field of Waterloo— Monument to the Prince of Orange— A Saying of Joseph Smith— A Genuine Relic of Waterloo.
Brussels, Belgium, December 10th, 1872. My Dear Daughter:
We started this morning from our hotel, eight of us, in an omnibus, and drove through a considerable portion of the beautiful city of Brussels and its environs. We entered what is here termed a wood. About one half of the coun- try is under cultivation, the remainder is covered with trees, much resembling the tall forest trees in the northern part of the State of Ohio. The open ground, except some newly plowed fields, was all green— thousands of acres covered with turnips, cabbage, kale and other vegetables. We saw women carrying large bundles of wood on their heads and one drawing a huge load of brush on a cart. Several others were guiding dogs that were attached to and drawing loaded carts. Our coachman called at an inn by the way, saying he wanted to feed his horses and give them some water. The food was slices of brown, coarse bread, which we tasted and pronounced tolerably good.
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Soon after 12 o'clock we arrived at the battle field of Waterloo, where was fought, on the 18th of June, 1816, one of the most sanguinary battles recorded in history. About one hundred and fifty thousand men were engaged for about ten hours in destroying each other. They covered the coun- try for miles with their dead, dying and wounded— both men and horses. It is said that more than thirty-five thousand men died on the field, and many died afterwards of their wounds. All of the privates who were killed in battle were buried where they fell— friends and foes, French, English, Dutch and Germans, who had slain each other, were mixed indiscriminately ; and the fields where they lay are now cul- tivated, and we walked over them. On the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded, in fair view of a large por- tion of the battle field, the Dutch government has erected a mound of earth, two hundred and forty feet high, on the top of which is a lion made of cast iron, cast in six parts, and weighing forty-eight thousand pounds. This lion is placed in a position which represents it looking towards France, which gives offence to many of the French people.
The view, from this height, of the battle field and its surroundings, is truly grand and beautiful; we enjoyed it much, although while there we were exposed to a pelting rain. While contemplating this scene, and the melancholy circumstances connected with it, my thoughts reverted to a saying of President Joseph Smith, while on an ancient La- manite battle field, in Clark Co., Ohio, in 1834. '' When a man of God is in a place where much blood has been shed, he will feel lonesome and depressed in spirits. This spot has been an ancient battle field, I know by my feelings." In a few moments we came to an immense mound of earth, sixty feet high, covering an acre of ground. This mound contained many human bones, and was, doubtless, like the Dutch monument of Waterloo, erected to perpetuate the memory and also to bury the dead of a great battle.
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Our party consists of myself, Lorenzo Snow, Eliza R. Snow, Feramorz Little, Clara S. Little, Paul A. Schettler, George Dunford and Thomas Jennings.
I should have said that while we were walking over the ground on whicli the battle of Waterloo was fought, Thomas Jennings picked up a bullet which was lying on newly ploughed land, Avhich is a genuine relic of the battle.
Your loving father,
GEORGE A. SMITH.
LETTER XXIV
Antwerp, Its Maritime Trade— Cathedral of Notre Dame, Its Wonderful Chimes — The Museum — A Masterpiece of Rubens — The Royal Palace — Brussels, Paris in Miniature — Cathedral of St. Nicholas— Selling Wax Candles — A Catholic Devotee— A Singular Marriage Ceremony — Royal Operatic Theatre — National Palace — Hotel de Ville — Monument to Counts Egmont and Horn,
Paris, France, December 12th, 1872.
Editor Deseret News:
We arrived in the city of Antwerp, Belgium, Ttli of De- cember. It is one of th3 finest cities in the kingdom, embra- cing a population of 133,000. It is the principal seaport of the country, cariying on an extensive traffic with Great Britain and Germanj^ Among other objects of interest, we examined the celebrated cathedral, Notre Dame, 390 feet in length and 216 feet in width, the most magnificent gothic structure in Belgium. It was commenced in the middle of the thirteenth century, and completed one hundred years
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after. It is the only churcli in Europe that has six aisles. Its skilfully executed and elaborate carvings, numerous paintings by celebrated artists, Mosaic work of the finest description, marble statues of exquisite workmanship, gor- geous gildings, and decorations of the most costly character, altogether form a scene of great beauty and magnificence. The tower is 402 feet in height and is ascended by 622 steps. It affords a splendid view of the city and surrounding coun- try. Its chimes are among the most complete in Belgium, consisting of 99 bells, the smallest of which is but fifteen inches in diameter, the largest weighs eight tons.
We also visited the Museum, containing a collection of 560 pictures, possessing great merit, the productions of celebrated masters. One of these by Rubens, which I consider the most perfect, particularly attracted my attention. It repre- sents Christ crucified between two thieves ; Longinus, the Roman officer, mounted on a grey horse, is piercing the Sa- viour's side with a lance ; the penitent thief, a grey -haired man, is invoking the Saviour for the last time. In the fore- ground stands the Virgin mother, whom Mary, the wife of Cleophas, in vain ende'avors to console. Farther back, St. John leans against the cross of the impenitent thief, weeping ; Mary Magdalene on her knees, at the foot of the cross, im- plores Longinus to spare the sacred body of her master.
The whole is drawn with almost startling accuracy, in- deed, I never saw a life scene on canvas so strikingly illus- trated. The writhing agony of the impenitent malefactor, whose legs have just been broken by a Roman soldier, while on the contrary, the composed expression of the other, though worn by suffering — all depicted with such marvellous exact- ness impressed me for the moment with a feeling that I was witnessing the reality of this shocking scene.
Antwerp justly boasts of many public edifices of great beauty and magnificence. The royal palace, erected over 100 years ago in fantastic pompadour style, drew our attention.
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though perliaps failed to excite our admiration. This city- has a splendid theatre, its interior handsomely decorated with paintings, and busts in marble and bronze of eminent com- posers and dramatists, among whom are Shakespeare, Moliere, Euripides, and Mozart. The Zoological Garden contains a fine collection of animals, which, with its garden and beauti- ful park, is considered one of the best in Europe.
We left Antwerp the following afternoon and arrived at Brussels in the evening.
Brussels is the capital of Belgium, the residence of the royal family, and contains a pojDulation of 170,000, only 6,000 of whom are Protestants. This city has many points of resemblance to Paris, the capital of France, so much so that it frequently is called '' Paris in miniature." The majority of the citizens speak the French language; the Flemish is chiefly spoken by the lower classes.
As usual on entering Catholic cities, we paid our respects to its celebrated cathedrals, of which St. Nicholas is the most prominent. It is of Gothic structure, and presents an im- posing appearance. Its interior embraces characteristics similar to other Catholic churches — images, elaborate carvings, fine marble statuary, sumptuous gildings, magnificent decora- tions, together with paintings in almost endless variety. Some have rather singular representations, such, for instance, as the "Expulsion from Paradise," done in carved wood, with great skill and at vast labor and expense. Among the beau- tiful foliage are seen all kinds of animals— a bear, dog, cat, eagle, vulture, peacock, owl, dove, squirrel, and lastly an ape eating an apple. These are surmounted by the Virgin with the Child, who crushes the head of the serpent with the cross.
In one of these churches, an old lady was holding a stock of wax candles, some of which ghe insisted on our purchasing, that we might burn them for the benefit of our dead friends. In another we saw a gentleman of respectable
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 73
appearance doing penance in a prostrate position upon the floor of the church, before the cross and image of the Sa- viour, kissing the stone pavement with great fervor, and wet- ting it with tears. I imagined he might have committed in secret some great crime ; I may have failed to do him justice.
In one of these cathedrals we witnessed a Catholic wed- ding which was quite amusing — the bride and groom were kneeling before the altar, a priest with sacerdotal robes, with open Bible, wax tapers, and three silver goblets of wine, was performing the marriage ceremony, reading a sentence or two, repeatedly kissing the cross and quaffing the wine, wav- ing his hands and pronouncing Latin, while in the back- ground a little boy in a white gown, walking to and fro, swinging slowly, then rapidly, a small censer with smoking incense, accompanied with an occasional jingle of a bell. In the evening we attended the Koyal Operatic Theatre, the most noted in Brussels, and the finest and most richly fin- ished and artistically decorated I ever visited. The par- quette was furnished with cushioned chairs, elegantly made and sufficient room to pass without annoyance. Its six-tiered gallery, with elaborate carvings and splendid gildings, pre- sented a grand appearance. I think the performances could not be surpassed.
We visited the National Palace, where the sessions of the Senate and Representatives are held, and were conducted through the various apartments. The Senate Hall is embel- lished with fifteen portraits of celebrated Belgians. These two halls had the appearance of comfort and convenience, rather than disj^lay.
The Hotel de Ville, the City Hall , the most remarkable edifice in Brussels, has a graceful tower of 386 feet in height ; on the summit of its spire is a figure in bronze of Michael, the Archangel, eighteen feet high. A portion of this hall is occupied by the City Council of Brussels, comprising thirty- one members. We noticed some magnificent tapestry 400
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years old, and ii basin with the keys of the city made of beaten gold and silver 200 years ago. In front of this hall stands a magnificent monument of Counts Egmont and Horn, who were unjustly executed by the notorious Duke of Alva, June 5th, 1568. A portion of this colossal structure contains figures in bronze representing the two Counts on their way to execution. In the Hotel de Ville, we ascended by a winding staircase to thj summit of its lofty tower, where we enjoyed a magiiiticent view of Brussels and its environs— a fatigaing luxury. Also from this lofty height may be seen in the dis- tance the " Lion Monument," a vast mound upon the battle field of Waterloo, erected in commemoration of the great victory won by the allied powers under the Duke of Wel- lington.
We visited that memorable locality about ten miles dis- tant from Brussels, spending several hours walking over the fields, still bearing traces of those bloody struggles, examin- ing many points and localities of intense interest ; but I will defer this subject for the present.
We left Brussels, Wednesday, December 11, and arrived in Paris the same evening.
LOKENZO SNOW.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 75
LETTER XXy
Paris— Visit to Versailles— Bois de Boulogne— St. Cloud— Attend the National Assembly— French Glory, Bruises and Scars— Interview with the Presi- dent of the French Republic.
Paris, France, December 18tli, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
We are pleasantly situated at the "Hotel de Peters- bourg," in tlie beautiful city of Paris, the capital of lovely, sunny France. Too much cannot be said of the beauty and magnificence of this wonderful city. I will not attempt, at present, to describe all that we have seeai of its beauty and grandeur. I have just returned from promenading some of its principal streets, viewing it in its evening splendor, lit up with thirty-two thousand gas burners.
Yesterday we visited Versailles, some twelve miles from Paris. We passed through the forest of Boulogne, admiring the delightful picturesque scenery bordering on the river Seine, passing through a variegated country until we reached St. Cloud, where we alighted from our carriages and walked over the ground where the Prussians planted their artillery to bombard th(3 city of Paris, and where many thousands were slain during the late bloody contest. Every building, except the Cathedral, had been demolished ; this was pre- served by a body of Prussians, who had been stationed there through the reverential feeling, perhaps, of the Prussian Emperor.
At Versailles we enjoyed magnificent views, comprising
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objects of almost infinite variety. To me, however, our visit to the National Assembly, then in session, was the most interesting, with the exception of our interview with Monsieur Thiers^ the President of the French Republic, which I will describe presently. The National Assembly comprises 758 deputies, elected by their respective districts in 1871, consti- tuting only a provisional government. How long they may feel disposed to hold office, or the vaccilating minds of the people to sustain them, the future will reveal. The political prospects of France are shrouded in fearful mystery — at any moment the most terrible scenes may burst upon the country ! The National Assembly convenes in that portion of the pal- ace formerly occupied as a theatre, when Versailles was revelling in regal pride and splendor. We owed the priv- ilege of admission to the President of the Assembly, through the request of Monsieur Bartholemy St. Hilaire, private sec- retary to M. Thiers, to whom we had been introduced by Major Lorin. We were accorded seats appropriated to for- eign diplomats and embassadors, an honor we appreciated and duly acknowledged. The grave, sedate, dignified, bald-headed appearance of this great body of French deputies was rather prepossessing. We spent about an hour in listening to their eloquent and animated speeches. I have alluded to Major Lorin — this gentleman distinguished himself as a French officer in the battles fought against Austria and Italy, also in many bloody conflicts between the French and Prussians. In the late war ho commanded about three thousand men. On the establishment of peace only forty-seven remained ; the others were either killed or disabled. The Major was covered with French glory — scars and bruises. We had formed an acquaintance with this gentleman, and while visiting Ver- sailles he proposed to present our cards to President Thiers and procure us an audience. We accepted the proposition and drove up to the palace of M. Thiers. In a few minutes the Major returned, accompanied by the President's private
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 77
secretary, wlio politely stated that M. Thiers would be happy to receive President Smith and party at half past nine, p. m.
We repaired to the palace at the hour designated. M. Bartholemy St. Hilaire conducted us to the reception hall and introduced us to President Thiers. He was attended by a number of distinguished French gentlemen, principally his cabinet ministers, anxious and curious to witness the inter- view between the President of the French Republic and the delegation from the Latter-day Saints in Utah, en route to Palestine. Mr. Thiers' personal appearance impressed us favorably — his dignified bearing, plain and unassuming man- ners, . with a countenance glowing with benevolence and patriotism. He possesses the reputation of being a good English scholar, but I presume the vast crowd of business of late years has allowed liim no time to practise the English lan- guage, therefore the conversation was carried on in French, Major Lorin acting as interpreter.
After the introduction. President Smith acknowledged our appreciation of the honor accorded to himself and party, in granting this interview — that we were from Utah, en route to Palestine to study the Bible in the land where its recorded events had chiefly transpired — that we sympathized with the President of the French Republic in the great cause he is laboring to establish — a Republic in France, and had sought this occasion of expressing our sentiments personally.
Upon this being interpreted. President Thiers replied that he was gratified with such assurances from Americans, and pleased to meet this delegation from Utah, and that he was familiar with the history of our people. President Smith remarked that we had been twenty-five years laboring under every possible disadvantage to colonize that portion of our American desert, in order to make a destitute people great and prosperous ; that in connection with other objects relating to our tour, we wished to gather information and statistics of the progress of older nations, that through their experience
78 CORKESPONDENCE OF
we might more successfully benefit and improve the people we represented.
President Thiers replied that, while we remained in France, he should take pleasure in rendering any assistance we might require in the promotion of tliis object.
We acknowledged our appreciation of this courtesy. President Smith thanked him for favors extended to Ameri- can citizens since the establishment of the French Republic.
President Thiers replied that he hoped the peaceful rela- tions now existing between the two governments would never be interrupted.
The interview closed in the following words by President Smith — " President Thiers, God bless you."
These words inspired M. Thiers with renewed interest — he requested the Major to give a literal translation of that ex- pression. The honesty, simplicity and earnestness in which this sentiment was delivered by President Smith, not only excited pleasurable emotion in M. Thiers, but also were visi- ble in the features of his ministers who were now crowding around.
President Thiers cordially shook hands with President Smith and each one of our party. We then retired, repaired to our carriages and returned to Paris the same evening.
Shortly after this interview, the circumstance of our reception was published in several of the French papers.
Please accept my regards for yourself and family.
LORENZO SNOW.
PALESTIXE TOURISTS. 79
LETTER XXYI.
Paris — Destruction of tlie Commune — Palace of tlie Louvre— Relics of Na- poleon First — Napoleonic Rule in France— French Aristocracy — Magnifi- cent Improvements — Champs Elysees— Garden of the Tuileries — Grarden of the Luxembourg — The Palace of Versailles — The Finest Hall in the World — Memories of Louis XVI— Le Grand Monarque — An Aristocratic Gambling Saloon— Bed-chamber of Three Queens— Fifty Miles of Parks and Gardens— Extract from the Paris " American Register "—Poetry — " Farewell to Paris."
Paris, France, December 19tli, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
We arrived in Paris llth December. This city contains a population of about two millions. It is situated upon a plain on both sides of the Seine. The surrounding country presents but little diversity in its physical appearance, being generally level except upon the north and northeast, \^here it rises into low hills. Many portions of Paris still bear traces of the vandalism and terrible destruction by the Com- munists in their attempt to overthrow the National Govern- ment, and several places which we visited bear witness of cruel and bloody deeds. The Palace of the Tuileries, once so famous for its beauty and magnificence, now lies in a mass of ruins, and must long remain a silent witness of the horrors of those fearful times.
The Palace Royal, Palace of the Legion of Honor, Hotel de Ville, Library of the Louvre, besides numerous other public buildings, together with many private edifices were totally destroyed. The celebrated Column Vendome, once a
80 CORRESPONDENCE OF
boasted specimen of monumental beauty, lias nothing left but its foundation.
We visited the Palaoe of the Louvre, famous for its im- mense collection of paintings, sculptures, and Egyptian and Roman antiquities. This pile of buildings embraces several miles of galleries, forming fifteen distinct museums, the most extensive in the world. The galleries of paintings contain nearly one thousand eight hundred and fifty pictures, many of them by the most celebrated artists, costing immense sums of money. One of these called the '* Conception," the pro- duction of Murillo, is said to have cost over one hundred thousand dollars. In the Salle de I'Empereur, we were shown some of the relics of Napoleon First — the clothes he wore on ceremonial occasions, the hat worn in the campaign of 1814, also the hat worn at St. Helena, and the handker- chief which he used on his death bed. These mementoes occasioned curious reflections. Our guide, who spoke Eng- lish fluently, took this opportunity to enlighten us respect- ing his own opinions of the merits of the Bonapart dynasty. He said that Napoleon First accomplished much for the honor and glory of France in military achievements, but that Napo- leon Third had greatly excelled him by making vast improve- ments of a national character — expending immense sums for this purpose — exhausting his own as well as the public trea- sury in furnishing the laboring classes employment. That under his reign the interests of working people had always been studied, that peace and plenty, like streams of water, had flowed in every direction. On the contrary, since the establishment of the Republic, things had taken a wrong direction — general improvement had stopped, leaving the laboring classes without employment and the means of sub- sistence; therefore, to the majority of the people, especially to the working classes, the restoration of the Bonapart dynasty would not be unwelcome.
The aristocracy of the French are highly educated,
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 81
whereas the lower orders scarcely possess a knowledge of the ordinary branches taught in the common schools in America, being verj^ ignorant, and yet ambitious to acquire wealth. They are unwilling to employ time in searching into the real causes of political evils and disabilities, but in proportion as i\\&jfeel the blessings of political prosperity or the misery of adversity they pronounce judgment upon the merits or de- merits of government, or the ruling powers.
We observed many magnificent improvements made by the direction of the late Emj)eror. Palaces had been recon- structed and enlarged in behalf of the national interests, ornamental monuments and triumphal arches, illustrative of the achievements of the French nation. Streets had been widened and beautified, and spacious thoroughfares formed through old and crowded localities. We were told that one thousand buildings, at vast labor and expense, were removed for this purpose.
Paris abounds in spacious grounds for promenades, public gardens, and extensive parks. The Bois de Boulogne, a fashionable promenade of the Parisians, embraces an area of about two thousand, one hundred and fifty acres. We passed through a part of this on our way to Versailles. The Champs Ely sees contain many delightful parterres with choice shrubs, flowers, and fountains throwing up sparkling, silvery sprays. The Garden of the Tuileries is exceedingly- attractive. It has many beautiful fountains with jets and orange trees, and fine statuary. The Garden of the Luxem- bourg has a large octagonal basin surrounded by flower beds and grass plats, flanked by terraces, and adorned with numerous statuary. We noticed another fountain in this garden, in the form of an oblong basin, surrounded by rows of plane trees. It has three niches separated by Doric col- umns. The central niche contains a group of marble figures representing Polyphemus, with one knee on a rock, in the attitude of slaying Acis and Galatea. The summer season
82 CORRESPONDENCE OF
would have afforded a better opportunity for enjoying these delightful scenes, but a Parisian climate, even in winter, in "sunny France," is frequently favorable for these enjoy- ments.
In my last I mentioned our visit to Versailles, the Na- tional Assembly, and our interview with President Thiers, but do not feel fully satisfied without some further reference to its objects of interest and curiosity.
Eleven years were occupied in building the Palace of Versailles, for which an army of workmen were employed and immense sums of money expended in overcoming the obstacles of nature, in erecting its massive buildings, and constructing and ornamenting the gardens and pleasure grounds.
Louis XIV held his court in this palace with such bril- liancy that it became the general rendezvous of the French aristocracy. It was finally converted, after many years, into a great National gallery for works of art, illustrative of the military glory of France. One of the numerous halls is called " Galerie des Glaces, " the finest in the world — two hundred and thirty-nine feet long and thirty-five feet in width. In this hall, during the siege of Paris, the King of Prussia, surrounded by the representatives of ail the Gferman sover- eigns, and the chief officers of his government and of the army, formally assumed the title of German Emperor.
The " Salle du Conseil" is entered from this hall, where Monsieur de Breze came to announce to Louis XVI the refusal of the deputies to disperse, and the memorable words of Mirabeau — " We are here by the will of the people, and we will only disperse at the point of the bayonet. " From this hall we passed into the apartment where "Le Grand Mon- arque" died. It is lavishly decorated, and the furniture remains in the same condition as at the King's death. The bed is that on which he died.
We passed into the " Salon de Paix," the card-room
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 83
in which Madame de Montespan is said to have lost, in one night, over one million, six hnndred thousand dollars. From this room a door leads to the bed chamber which was occupied by the three Queens, Marie Theresa, Marie Lec- zinska, and Marie Antoinette. At six o'clock on the morn- ing of the 6th of October, 1789, the Queen, asleep in this chamber, was aroused by the cries of the guard that her life was in danger. Escaping from this room she hastened to join the King, whom she found in the "Salle du Conseil." They at once appeared, with their children, on the balcony of the King's bed chamber, from which he addressed the in- censed and furious mob which had crowded into the court below.
The paintings and sculpture consist of representations of the most remarkable events in the history of France, especi- ally the victories won by military valor, including those gained by Napoleon Third. The j)ortraits are those of the admirals, constables, marshals and many other distinguished officers of different periods, who have contributed to the glory of the nation. Many of these paintings are of immense value.
The park, including the gardens, is nearly fifty miles in circumference, adorned with marble statuary of exquisite workmanship, ornamental trees, beautiful parterres and mag- nificent fountains.
The original cost of this royal palace, with its splendid surroundings, is reported to have been about two hundred millions of dollars. With these observations, I close the subject.
LOEENZO SNOW.
84 C 0 E II E S P O X D E N C E OF
FROM THE TARIS ''AMERICAN REGISTER.
On Tuesday last the Mormon party, now passing through Europe on their way to Palestine, visited Versailles and were received in the evening by M. Thiers. The Hon. George A. Smith, leader of the party, gave the President a curious and interesting account of Mormonism in the United States, and stated that the sect which he represents is already composed of about 120,000 members. Mr. Smith and his party started for Lyons on Thursday, and leave that city to-day for Mar- seilles, where, after remaining a couple of days, they will pro- ceed to Nice.
Although the Mormon party at present in France disclaim uny other motive than that of pleasure and instruction for their proposed visit to Palestine, it is asserted by some who profess to be well informed, that they are going there to ex- plore the ground for the foundation of a new Jerusalem. We see nothing improbable in this assumption. The people who created a paradise in Salt Lake may well aim at founding an Eden in the land of prophets.
The long interview which the Mormon elders had with the French President, the other day, has, we are informed, seriously disquieted Madame Thiers. Surely at the Presi- dent's advanced time of life there is no fear of his conversion to Mormon doctrines. As Thiers was born April 10, 1797, sind, consequently, will be 76 years of age in April next, we sincerely sympathize with Madame in her alarm.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 85
FAREWELL TO PAllIS
Farewell great Paris, soon I go
Upon the morning train ; I go where softer breezes blow
On land and wat'ry main.
I'm going now, and as I leave
I take a parting view. And see the web of distance Aveave
That separates from you.
Your spires that glitter in the sun Above "The Arch of Time,"
Are disappearing one by one : I hear no church bell chime.
Gay Paris, beautiful e' en now
Bereft of much you boast ; Tho' Prussia aim'd your pride to bow
'Twas Paris hurt you most.
War demons 'roused in foreign lands Can never wield the power
As when, by suicidal hands, Commissioned to devour.
Of all the ills of human life That mighty nations cursed,
The warfare of internal strife And carnage is the worst.
Yovir ruined palaces and halls,
Scathed by fraternal hate, Are sad mementos— each recalls
Your folly and your fate.
M. Thiers, with wise sagacity,
The dire result foresaw If France, with blind temerity,
The battle-axe should draw.
86 CORRESPONDENCE OF
He now presides. Will Franco sustain
His policy of peace, Or in a vortex plunge again
Where waste and crime increase?
Fair, lovely Paris ! What shall be
Your future, who can toll ? Your lofty spires no more I see — Again I say, farewell !
ELIZA R. SNOW.
LETTER XXYII
Brussels— Theatre Royal— Church of St. Michael and Gudule— Visit to a Lace Factory— Houses of Parliament— Hotel de Ville— Waterloo and the Farm of Hougomont— Arrival at Paris— Call upon the American Minis- ter—Yisit to Palaces— Notre Dame— Opinion of Utah Silk— Yisit the Com- mon Schools— Go to Yersailles— Bois de Boulogne— Yisit the President of the French Republic- Arrival at Lyons— Silk Factories and Cocooneries.
Hotel de L'Eukope, Lyons, France,
December 20, 1872. Editors Salt Lake Herald:
My last letter to you was dated Brussels, December Sth. On the evening of that day we visited the finest theatre in Brussels, called '* Theatre Royal de la Monnaie," and witr ne^ssed the performance of the beautiful opera "L'Afri- caine." Next morning we went to the largest church in Brussels, St. Michael and Gudule, containing some of Rubens' best paintings. Thence to a lace factory which employs about 3,000 women, most of whom, however, work at home and earn from one to two and a half francs per day for twelve hours work, which is very hard on the eyes. After that we
PALESTINE TOUKISTS. 87
went through the Houses of Parliament, which are very ele- gantly furnished, contain some most excellent paintings of this century, and are quite extensive, considering the size of the kingdom of Belgium. There are seats for 124 representa- tives and 62 senators. After lunch we went to the old Town Hall, commenced in 1402, and ascended the tower, which is 404 feet high, and from which very fine views over the city and its environs can be obtained, even to the battle-field of Waterloo ; but it rained pretty hard when we arrived at the top of the tower, and consequently we saw but little .
Tuesday, the 10th, we spent in a visit to Waterloo, leav- ing our hotel at 9.45 a. m., and arriving there at noon. We procured a guide, who talked English with a pretty strong French accent, but who was well posted in the history of the l^attle, and gave us a great deal of interesting information. We visited the celebrated farm of Hougomont, where the first shot was fired at 11.30 a. m., the Lion Monument, etc., and returned to Brussels in a heavy rain shower.
December Tlth we took train for Paris at 9 a. m., arrived in the capital of " la belle France" at 5.30 p. m. We put up at the Hotel St. Petersbourg, 25 Eue Caumartin, and received a number of letters from our friends at home, dated up to November 23rd, and four numbers of your semi-weekly to the same date, which President Albert Carrington had for- warded according to arrangements made with him. We all felt glad to hear from " home, sweet home," as the news was generally of a very satisfactory nature. Our first visit next morning was to call upon our Minister, Mr. Washburne. He being still absent, his son, who is secretary of legation, received us kindly, and furnished a passport to Mr. George Dunford, who was not provided with one. After returning to the hotel we took a walk with our ladies to the beautiful *' Place de la Concorde," thence through the Garden of the Tuileries to the Palace of the Tuileries and to the Louvre. A great portion of the Tuileries, which were plundered and
88 C O R K E S P O N D E N C E OF
burned by the Commune, is still in ruins and presents a rather melancholy appearance. The collection of paintings, statuary and other works of art in the Louvre is very large, and it would take weeks to go through the galleries, and study everything tliat is exhibited. Friday the 18th, we called at the banking house of Messrs. Marcuard, Andre & Co., to whom President George A. Smith had a letter of intro- duction from Mr. Ralston, cashier of the Bank of California. Mr. Andre gave to President Smith a letter of introduction to Mr. Husson, General Director of the Educational Department of the District of the Seine, who also received us with mucli courtesy, and instructed the Superintendent of the Paris schools to show us around in all the schools of the city that we desired to visit. In the afternoon we drove to the Palace of the Luxembourg, where the legislative assembly met for about a hundred years back, but since the late war that body occupies a former theatre at Versailles. Saturday wo spent a part of the day at the Church of Notre Dame, where we were shown through the treasury chamber of the churchy which contains several dozen of the most magnilicent gold embroidered robes, to be used by the priests of the church on certain occasions, also the bloody garments of several of the bishops of Paris, who had been shot by the Commune- On the 15th I visited several parties who were interested in sericulture, in compan}^ of Mr. George Dunford, to whom I had letters of introduction from Mr. L. A. Bertrand, and they pronounced the samples of cocoons which I had brought along from home of very excellent quality, and expressed the opinion that this branch of industry would prove to our people an almost inexhaustible gold mine. In the afternoon some of our party visited the botanical and zoological gar- dens.
Monday, the 16th, the principal clerk of the Educational Department, Mr. Chasteauneuf, who speaks English pretty well, called at our hotel to take us to some of the primary
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 89
schools of the city. At the first one we visited, we met the Inspector of the Paris schools, who together with Mr. Chasteauneuf exerted himself to give us all the information we desired, and accompanied ns to all the places which we visited during the day. The principal of the first school, Mr. Charles Barbier, had 350 scholars under his charge, from six to about fourteen year 5 old, and had adopted a new system, originated in his own brain, to teach history and geography, by making his scholars draw the maps of France during the different periods of history, on the walls, which they now permanently adorn, and keep that history before the eyes of his pupils. On our entrance to each different class, the scholars arose and saluted us in military manner. They receive lessons in gymnastics and military drilling twice a week, in order to prepare all the male population of France for another attack of a neighboring enemy. Their lunch time having arrived, they all repaired to a large room on the first floor, where their lunch baskets, all named and numbered, were waiting, under each boy's seat, for an attack on the half bottle of wine and bread and butter which they generally contained. Everything was clean and tid}^, no scribbling, no whittling, because, as the teacher remarked, they did not allow anything of the kind. The other schools which we visited were all conducted on similar iirinciples, one of them, conducted by a Mrs. Lecroix, having 120 little girls and boys, from two to six years of age, under her charge, who treated us to a couple of nice songs ; and another school conducted by friars. Tuesday, 17th, drove to Versailles, taking a couple of English speaking guides. We passed through the Bois de Boulogne, or Woods of Boulogne, and stopped a short time at St. Cloud, to walk through a few streets and see the terrible destruction which the Prussians had made on their retreat from Paris. Our guide, having learned who we were, proposed to get us an interview with President Thiers. We rather liked the suggestion, though we were not prepared
90 CORRESPONDENCE OF
to appear in full dress, and accordingly drove up in front of the government department. Our guide went inside to make inquiries if we could be admitted, but President Thiers was engaged in a council, and sent his x)rivate secretary, Mr. I Bartliolemy St. Ililaire, member of the House of Representa- tives, to our carriage, to tell us that he was sorry that he could not receive iis now, as he was engaged, but he would be pleased to see us at 9.30 p. m. We left our cards and visited the palace, to which we were admitted through a card of Mr. I. B. St. Hilaire, on which he wrote in pencil, to facil- itate our seeing the palace, the gardens, and the hall of Assembly. When this card was presented to Mr. Jule Grevy, President of the Assembly, he gave orders to seat us in the gallery of the Diplomatic Corps, facing the President and the Speaker. In'the evening we called at President Thiers', and were admitted at 10.15 p. m. He was surrounded by his cabinet and members of the Assembly. President Thiers felt sorry that he could not converse in English, and our guide had to do the interpreting between liim and President Smith. When we left he shook hands with all of us, and wished us a pleasant journey. President Smith wished him a hearty " God bless you."
Thursday, the 19th, at 11 a. m., we left Paris per express train for Lyons, .319 miles distance, and reached here at 10.15 p.m. , stopping at the Hotel de I'Europe. To-da}^ I called with a letter from my friend L. A. Bertrand on Mr. Jacquemet Bon- nefont, dealer in seeds, who has large mulberry plantations and cocooneries in Annonay. His agent took great pleasure in taking our party to several silk establishments, where we saw the manufacture of all kinds of silk and velvet ; also the weaving of portraits. We bought a few of President Thiers, General Washington and Mr. Jacquard, the inventor of that machine. I showed him a photograph I had with me of President B. Young, and he said he would have it set up, and weave it, to be ready in about three or four months. He
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 91
sells these portraits, which are 5 1-2 by 7 1-2 inches, at ten francs, or about two dollars apiece. To-morrow I intend go- ing to Annonay, to visit the cocooneries and mulberry plan- tations of Messrs. Jacquemet Bonnefont & Sons, while the rest of our party will continue sight-seeing here in Lyons.
We are all in the enjoyment of good health, and nothing has occurred to mar our peace.
Yours as ever,
PAUL A. SCHETTLER.
LETTER XXYIII
The Religions of France — Marriage a Civil Conti-act — Tlie Concordat — Con- vents in Paris — The Educational System — Xumber of Births in Paris — Illegitimacy — Working Classes — Paupers — Prisons — The Supreme Power, Where Vested — The Standing Army.
Lyons, France, December 20th, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
We left Paris yesterday morning and arrived in this city the following evening. Before I close my observations upon our visit to Paris, allow me to extract a few more items from my journal.
The religion of France is principally Roman Catholic. The Reformed Oalvinistic, the Lutheran, and Jewish churches, are recognized and sustained by the State. The masses of the people, however, profess the Catholic religion, which is eminently the acknowledged religion of the Government. The principal festivals of the Catholics are observed as public holidays, when public prayers are ordered ; the authorities
92 CORRESPONDENCE OF
are supposed to bo Catholics, and are expected to attend these ceremonies, yet no processions are allowed outside the walls of a Catholic church in towns where there are churches of a different order of worship.
Marriage is made a civil contract, and no religious cele- bration of marriage is allowed until the civil contract has been entered into before the Mayor Tlie registers of bap- tisms, marriages and burials, kept by the church, are not re- ceived as evidence in lieu of the like registers, kept by the Mayor.
The Concordat, which was arranged with the Pope, by Napoleon Bonaparte on the restoration of the Christian worship, still regulates the government of the church. Its main object is to place the church entirely under the control of the state. The government nominates the archbishops and bishops, the Pope then confers the canonical honors. The bishops appoint the priests, subject to the approval of the government. No communication from the papal court, no doctrinal decision or formula can be published or taught, no council held, no change in the discipline introduced, un- less sanctioned by the government. The Lutheran, like the Catholic, churches, are under the control of the state. The appointment and removal of pastors must be confirmed by the government. The same also in respect to all protestant churches in France — the state exercises more or less influence and control.
In Paris there are over thirty convents, principally of nuns, ostensibly engaged in the education of young ladies in the relief of sick and indigent persons, besides other use- ful employments. We saw them attending the sick in hos- pitals, in private dwellings, and engaged in superintending schools for the poor, which impressed us favorably in their behalf.
The national schools are also under the control of the government, and are divided into three classes or general de-
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 93
departments — " Instruction Superieure," " Instruction Secon- daire," and " Instruction Primaire." Tliese departments are governed by a Supreme Council of Public Instruction, com- posed of five bishops or archbishops, three senators, three councilors oi state, three members of the Court of Cassa- tion, three ministers belonging to the Lutheran Reformed and Jewish creeds, five members of the Institute, eight in- spector generals and two heads of private establisliments of instruction. All the members of this council are nominated by the government for one year.
About seven thousand students are now attending in the superior department. In the primary departm-^nt the total number of pupils is nearly two hundred thousand. President Smith obtained an introduction to the Prefecteur General of the Department of the Seine, who courteously accorded us the privilege of visiting and inspecting these national institutions. We were conducted by the secretary and public inspector, Mr. Charles Barbier, into several departments, and examined minutely the course of studies and discipline, metliods of teaching, arrangement of desks, seats, &c., and lastly their gymnastic exercises. Every explanation and facility were af- forded that we recjuired for obtaining statistics and the information we sought. The government is very strict, ap- proaching to that of military discipline. We admired the in- dustry and general neatness conspicuous in every depart- ment.
One of these primary schools consisted of four hundred and fifty boys, from ten to fourteen years of age, divided in- to branches, each numbering from seventy to one hundred, occupying separate rooms in the same building. We noticed that the seats and desks exhibited no signs of whittling pro- pensities in the occupants. I remarked to the superintend- ent that I supposed his young students wf^re prohibited pen- knives, upon which he ordered the school to hold up their knives, when, to our great amusement, two-thirds of the boys
94 CORKESrONDENCE OF
presented to view tUis article of pocket furniture ; this ex- periment was repeated in two other departments with like re- sults. These seats and desks had been occupied seven years without mark or blemish, a high encomium on school dis- cipline.
On intimating our wishes to witness their gymnastics, the superintendent ordered his school of eighty boys to retire to a capacious hall, where they ]3erformed in a masterly manner several courses of exercise consisting of military evolutions. A sentiment expressed on the occasion, by President Smith, that these young gentlemen, at some future period, might be able to " put the Prussians through," was highh^ relished by the superintendent. In all the national schools, I think these gymnastic exercises throughout are characteristically military, giving tone to the martial spirit and military am- bition of the French nation.
After spending several hours in these public schools, we returned to our hotel fully satisfied with our visit.
A few items of social statisdcs might be interesting. In 1869, the last census returns show the number of births in the capital to be some above 54,000 ; still-born children 4,500 ; deaths 45,872 ; marriages 18,948. Of the children born 15,366 were illegitimate ; of these 3,059 were acknowledged by their parents.
About one half of the population of Paris are working people ; 15,000 are paupers; 21,000 patients are always in hos- pitals, and four times as many pass through them in the course of the year. The population of the prisons is about 5,000. It is a remarkable fact, that families constantly re- siding in Paris, after a while become extinct.
The supreme power in France is vested in a National Assembly elected in February, 1871, during the armistice signed with Prussia for this object. M. Thiers was elected President at the sitting of the Assembly by acclamation. His powers of government depend on the will of the As-
PALESTIXE TOURISTS. 95
sembly. The country remains without a constitution. The common routine of business is ordinarily transacted accord- ing to former usages, though not expressly confined ta any particular programme.
A few days since, a petition was circulating in the cafes of Paris, requesting the members of the National Assembly to resign. The police, however, soon suppressed these pro- ceedings.
The standing army of France is about a half million— in every part of the country we meet soldiers promenading in military costume.
The laws, usages, all the internal operations, together with the great mass- of officials, previously in existence under the monarchy, still remain nearly the same, xlt present, the French republic does not venture upon many material or radical changes.
France receives her republic like an ancient aristocratic- al household its new lord, looking for no changes of servants nor lessening of fees or emoluments, neither alterations in its anciently established usages and customs.
How long this ancient house and its new lord will con- tinue to maintain amicable relations, we leave the future to illustrate.
LORENZO SNOW.
96 CORRESPONDENCE OF
LETTER XXIX.
From Paris to Lyons — Burgundy and its Wines— Famous Towns— Fontaine- bleau — Lyons and its Silk Industries — Tliirty-one Tliousand Silk Looms — Weaving Portraits — Beautiful Marseilles — An Ami^hitheatre 1,800 Years Old — Roman Relics — Olive Plantations and Vineyards — The Mediter- ranean.
Marseilles, France, December 23, 1872. Editor Deseret News:
Our routs from Paris to Lyons lies through a beautiful and interesting country, abounding in orchards and vine- yards, many of the latter being very extensive. The district of Burgundy, so much celebrated for its excellent wines, em- braces an area of 224,223 acres, all in vineyards. These vines are trained upon stakes three feet high , being more thickly set than is commonly practised elsewhere. Their yield differs according to the soil and quality of the vine, some yielding as high as one thousand gallons per acre. Immense quanti- ties of these Burgundy wines are transported annually to foreign countries. They are highly prized by amateur con- sumers, being considered superior to most other wines in point of flavor and delicious quality. The price of the genuine Burgundy wines where they are manufactured will average about one dollar per gallon.
The value of these products, in this district is, annually, in the neighborhood of ten millions of dollars. We were told that the longest duration of the finest wines capable of preservation does not exceed twelve or fifteen years from the
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 97
season they are made ; after that time they decline instead of improve. Some, however, may be kept twenty years, but such wines are considered of an ordinary quality.
Wine in Fmnce is a common beverage, as much so as cider in our Eastern States. It is always placed upon the tables, and all are supposed to be judges of its merits, and to require its enlivening influences.
We passed many towns famous in history for memorable battles fought in their vicinity, or stirring events which have occurred within their walls. Fontainebleau, about forty miles from Paris, is remarkable for the great battle fought in Feb. 1814, in which the allies were signally beaten by the French under Napoleon. We stopped but a short time at this place.
We passed many elegant mansions, beautiful country seats, chateaux and towns— some of the latter very antique, embracing ancient castles^ and fortifications crumbling to pieces, or lying in ruins. We also passed many lovely vales encircled in the distance by low ranges of picturesque hills covered with vineyards and olive orchards, the latter still clothed in rich green foliage. Among these romantic hills, here and there a beautiful villa appears, with its white chapel surmounted by a modest, graceful tower.
We reached Lyons on the evening of the 19th, distant from Paris about 300 miles.
Lyons is the second city of France, with a population, of about three hundred and twenty-five thousand. It is cele- brated for its silk manufactures ; in quality and variety they are considered superior to any others in the world. In the city and vicinity there are over 31,000 silk looms. Immense numbers of laborers are employed in the business. We vis- ited some of these establishments and were amused and interested in witnessing the skill and ingenuity manifested. Portraits, groups of people and also landscapes were woven in silk with as much accuracy in delineation of face and
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figure as when done by the most skilful artist with paint and brush. We purchased a few specimens of their weaving, in- cluding exquisitely beautiful handkerchiefs, portraits of eminent personages, George Washington, M. Thiers, and other distinguished individuals. We showed the proprietor of the establishment a photograph of President Brigham Young, and on his proffering to weave the portrait, President Smith made an arrangement to have a supply in readiness on our return from Palestine.
We engaged carriages and drove through the principal streets, park and suburbs of the city. We saw remains ol walls, fortiii cations and buildings constructed in past ages by the Eomans, together with other objects of curiosity and his- toric interest. We had a splendid view of the hills of Savoy and also of Mont Blanc, one hundred miles distant, clothed in perpetual snows.
We left Lyons by train, on the 21st, en route for Mar- seilles. We passed through many towns and cities of great antiquity, celebrated for remains of architectural relics, attesting their former greatness and splendor. In the town of Arlis is a vast amphitheatre, supposed to have been built 1,800 years ago, now lying in magnificent ruins. It is 459 feet long and 338 leet broad, it had 43 rows of seats and could accommodate 25,000 people. The walls, to a considerable extent, are broken down, together with some of its towers. In former years, during the wars, it was occupied as a for- tress.
In several parts of this ancient town the ground is strewed with Koman relics, entablatures, broken down columns, &c.
We arrived in Marseilles, about 200 miles distant from Lyons, in the evening, and stopped at the Hotel du Louvre et de laPaix — a very fine establishment.
This city contains 300,000 inhabitants, and is considered the finest seaport in France. Its harbor is formed by an in- let of the sea, extending into the heart of the city, cover-
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 99
ing an extent of seventy acres, and will accommodate 1,200 vessels. We found numerous objects of interest and attrac- tion. No finer streets can be found in any city of Europe — they are broad and many of them bordered with ornamental trees. The park is extensive and the public gardens and promenades are romantic and enchanting to lovers of culti- vated nature. To fully enjoy the smiling sun and balmy air of beautiful Marseilles, and also to avail ourselves of an opportunity for gratifying curiosity and gaining information, we perambulated the city. The gardens and parks were orna- mented with rich and costly shrubbery, grass plats tastefully encircled with llowers, gravel walks with beautiful borders, ornamental trees trimmed into varied forms, flowers exhaling sweet fragrance around grottoes, fountains and cascades.
On one side, at a short distance from the city, lies a vast landscape commencing with rising hills covered with terraces of equal width, planted with olive trees and vineyards, rising in regular gradation one above another, like rows of seats in an amphitlieJttre, beautiful country seats here and there dot- ting the summits of these hills, fronted with gardens and groves of the orange and lemon tree loaded with golden fruit. These ranges of hills, continuing one above another, roll away in the distance into lofty mountains, and still onward until their towering peaks are mantled in perpetual snow. Before us stretching far off beneath the encircling horizon, in calm and sweet repose, slumber the blue waters of the Med- iterranean, whose broad bosom is whitened with sails from every land and clime.
We shall long remember our stroll through the parks and gardens of Marseilles, and along the sunny shore of the beautiful Mediterranean.
LOEENZO SNOW.
100 COKEESPOXDENCE OF
LETTER XXX.
London Conference— Visiting the Poor— " Work Their Lives Out to Keep Life In'"—Rotterdam— Dutch Cleanliness— Political Economy in Holland — Brussels and its Carpets and Lace— Waterloo— Continvial Rain — Twenty Miles of Tunnels — Alpine Railroads — European and American Railway's.
Genoa, Italy, December 29tli, 1872. Editok Woman's Exponent:
I attended the London Conference of tlie Saints with much satisfaction. In company with Mrs. Thompson, Miss Clara S. Little and Elder Junins F. Wells, who kindly prof- fered to escort ns, I spent one day in making calls among the Saints. I told Brother Wells that I wished to see the poorest Saints in London. He said he would take us to those in lowest circumstances of any in the city, and then to those who possessed the most of this world's goods; although, he said, outside of the city are some much more destitute than those within our reach.
All whom we visited seemed cheerful and happy. We found one family in particular, destitute enough, in an upper room, reached by a dark, narrow, winding stairway, who had apparently to " work their lives out to keep life in. " In a small room that I could nearly reach across, the mother and two daughters were busy at their "annual" employment, with scissors, paste, guilt trimmings, pasteboard, wire and ribbons, making boxes of all fanciful forms and sizes for a wealthy merchant who furnished the materials, and paid them at a very low figure for their work. We spent the evening at
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 101
Brother Rowe's, where we were genteelly entertaifted and had not only the pleasure of the society of our Palestine tourists, but of a goodly number of Missionaries from Utah.
At Rotterdam we put up at the Bath Hotel, a commo- dious building — everything in excellent order, and scrupu- lously clean. Cleanliness seems to be a characteristic with hotels in Holland ; and, admitting industry to be promotive of neatness, it must also be a national characteristic. No sensible, candid person can visit this country without accord- ing to the people the credit of industry, and indomitable per- severance. Most people think they do well to cultivate the ground after it is made, but the Hollanders make much of the ground they cultivate, and when made and cultivated, it requires constant labor and expense to protect it from inun- dation. They must, as a matter of course, be honest, they have not time to be otherwise.
The wise policy of the Dutch brings wealth : they im- port raw material of every kind — manufacture it, and export it when manufactured. For instance , they purchase American lard, and then, after multiplying its value in their factories, sell it to Americans in the form of candles. I noticed women wearing ornaments of gold on their heads, which were very consp'cuous — some of the size of a silver dollar and some much larger — and was informed that those ladies were wives of wealthy farmers, and that thoy wore these ornaments to represent their wealth.
I could not pass over this very interesting, small portion of the world, in silence ; but in writing to the Deseret JN'ews my brother has said so much about Holland, its inhabitants, shipping, canals, etc., I shall not attempt description. Suf- fice it to say, I enjoyed my visit in that kingdom, immensely. Rotterdam, the Hague, Haarlem and Amsterdam, from which we returned to Rotterdam en route to Antwerp in Belgium, thence to Brussels, celebrated for its carpets and lace, which we saw and admired, from which place we visited
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the battle-field of Waterloo, and the next day left Belgium en route for Paris where, including one day's visit to Ver- sailles, we spent five days very pleasantly.
Rain in unusual quantities has been the order of the day overhead and underfoot from the time we landed in Liver- pool until now, with few exceptions. Large tracts of culti- vated land, with fencing nearly covered, and in many in- stances, houses entirely surrounded with water, sometimes on one side of the railroad, at other times on both, have pre- sented ocean scenes rather than those of terra Jlrma. But with all the rains and floods we have experienced but little inconvenience, the most was in coming from Nice to this place — overflow of water had made breaches in the track, and instead of one day we were two days on the waj^, distance one hundred and twenty-six miles. We have met with no other detention. Some of our party estimated the length of all the tunnels in the above distance to be, at least, twenty miles. Whoever projected a railroad in this Alpine country is worthy of a gold statue for his courage and intrepidity. It is astonishing to think of the amount of labor and expense requisite for the accomplishment of this Herculean project. Most of these tunnels are cut through solid rock, and per- manently arched, a protection against mountain torrents flowing in to the Mediterranean, the shores of which the rail- road follows from Marseilles to Genoa, except when tunneled or cut through the many spurs of the Alps projecting into the sea.
Compared with those of England, America may boast the long stretch of her roads, but, so far as work and means are concerned, Americans should doff" hats in presence of this Herculean enterprise of southern France and northern Italy.
To-morrow mornins; we leave for Turin.
*&
ELIZA E. SNOW,
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 103
THE YEAR 1872
The year is stepping out regardless of My long, long distance from nay Mountain Home. It leaves me in Italia's "sunny clime," Where verdant foliage gentle breezes kiss, And balmy zephyrs fan the evening tide.
The year now passing out has, in its course. In lib'ral portions, meted out to me The wide extremes of deep bereavement, and Munificence in richly flowing streams. Which I acknowledge freely ere we part.
All grateful reminiscences, the old, Expiring Year inscribes indelibly On mem'ry's sacred tablet, richly wreath'd With choice mementos of the good produced, Of vict'ries Truth and Justice have achieved. Improvement's progress in the march of mind. And every aid to poor humanity. While its successor treads upon its heels. '
Good bye old Year ! We both are moving on : You, to the cloister of the mighty past. To join it to the future yet unborn ; I, to the far-famed land of Palestine, Which has a hist'ry of the past, that bears. With a momentous and eternal weight Of destiny to all of human kind, Upon the future, which the passing years With hurried tread ere long will introduce With bold, magnificent developments.
I go to place my feet upon the land Where once the Prince of Peace, the Son of God, Was born — where once He lived and walked and preach' d And prayed, admonished, taught, rebuked and blest ; And then, to answer Justice' great demand And seal his mission of Eternal Love, Upon the cross poured out his precious blood,
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Arose to life triumphant o'er the tomb ;
And after being seen and heard and felt,
Ascended up to heaven ; and as He went,
Those who stood looking heard an angel say —
" Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye here
Gazing to heaven ? The self-same Jesus whom
Ye see ascending in like manner will again descend."
Each year that passes on Clips from the thread of time a portion of Its intervening length, and hurries up The coming great and grand fulfilment of That strange prediction, strange and strangely true.
That most momentous i^eriod, for the great Event is fast approximating, and The moving of the waters now, amidst The nations of the earth, like deepest shades Of pencil drawings, seems foreshadowing The world's great crisis.
Human Policy Grows tremulous, while human governments, With tender care are fondly fostering And feeding with their life s best nourishment, The seeds of their own dissolution.
France Is poising on a pivot, Eng'and rests On her broad pedestal, but resting moves With vacillating tendencies. The famed Italia stands in leaning posture froni The Papal Chair to King Emanuel ; While Russia, beckoning to Austria, To Germany, or whosoever will, Solicits help to lift the balance Of Power, now lying just beyond her reach.
The wires of destiny are working on
To consummate eternal purposes.
And bring results of change that must precede
" The Second coming of the Son of Man ; "
When, unto him, " whose right it is to reign,"
All human powers and governments will bow.
ELIZA R. SNOW. Milan, Italy, December 31, 1872.
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 105
LETTER XXXI.
Reflections — Members of the Party — Birthplace of Columbus — Religion on Continental Europe — High Mass — The Cathedral at Genoa — Approaching Marseilles— Orange and Lemon Groves — The Mediterranean — European Apples.
Milan, Italy, January 1st, 1873.
Mrs. Jane S. Eichaeds:
Dear Sister : — How very changeful are the events of hu- man life ! One year ago, the idea of addressing you from Italy at the commencement of this year would have seemed almost an hn possibility. But here I am, a long distance from what to me is the dearest spot on earth — the home of the Saints of the living God. The lapse of time, since parting with you and the many dear ones associated with you in Ogden, has been a constant routine of change combined with deep interest. Our party consists of President George A. Smith, Elders Lorenzo Snow, Paul A. Schettler, Feramorz Little, George Dunford, Thomas Jennings, Miss Clara S. Little and your humble ser- vant. So far as society is concerned, we are independent wherever we are, and enjoy ourselves as well as possible for people abroad, feeling assured of the faith and prayers of the righteous ; a nd I assure you that I never forget a tribute of grati- tude to those through whose love, kindness and generous energies the privilege of this tour is extended to me. I have, so far, enjoyed it far beyond my anticipations. Two months and one week, and I am between seven and eight thousand miles from home, having traveled through England, visited the most prominent cities in Holland and Belgium, and in
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France the cities of Paris, Versailles, Lyons, Marseilles and Nice.. After leaving Nice we enter the dominions of Victor Emanuel. Our first stopping place in Italy, according to our programme, would be Genoa, but in consequence of heavy rains having made a break in the railroad, we stopped one night in St. Eeno, and went the next day to Genoa, the birth- place of Christoi^her Columbus. From Genoa we went to Turin and came thence to this place.
The national religion, we found since leaving England to be Catholic. I had never witnessed the service until in Brus- sels. This being New Year's Day, high mass was performed in the grand Cathedral of Milan, which we attended. The cathedral is a magnificent Gothic structure, containing four- teen chapels ; it is, by many, considered the finest in the world. We were informed that the service on the occasion was of the highest order ; C3rtainly much of it was senseless form and unmeaning, though dazzling, display. I enjoyed the singing and the 'sweet music of the two organs, which played alternately. The Archbishop, who represented the Poj)e in all respects except that his hand, instead of his toe, was kissed, was most gorgeously dressed, bearing, at times, upon his head a superb mitre, and at other times, according to the requirements of the service, it was taken off by an officiate and held until again required, and then replaced. The burning of incense was profuse. Great numbers, vari- ously attired, officiated on the occasion, and the congregation was immense. The services were performed in Latin and, it is presumable, was as little comprehended by the majority of the church members as by us. I readily understood'^that many of the people present were, like ourselves, spectators. But when I looked upon the congregation and saw some crossing themselves, some reverently kneeling and others bowing, first to a golden crucifix, then to the Archbishop, my heart responded— How long, O Lord, shall these, thy children, be bound in the dwarfing chains of traditional superstition and
PALESTINE TOURISTS. 107
ignorance 1 It is true the powers of earth are shaking, but at present I can see no hope for millions of people under the training of the '^Mother of Harlots," and the influence of priestcraft, but through the ordinances for the dead. Such were my reflections while 1 remained a spectator in the midst of a great multitude in the stately and superb Cathedral of Milan, which is described as being four hundred and eighty- six feet in length, and its total breadth three hundred and fifty